Achavel Ferrer Malbec 2006

jseeds | October 31, 2007

img_0250.jpg ~$15-20US 100% Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina
Color: Rich Purple

Nose: Wild berries, sage, shawarma spice, sumac
Palate: Explosive and powerful, tremendous balance of big fruit and clean acidity, sweetness and meatiness (lamb?).
Finish: Apple cider tartness, medium length, grape Lik-M-Aid

Wow - this is one exciting wine. Stylistically fruit forward, but the fruit was surrounded by a baroque assortment of spices, herbs, and second- and third-tier aromatics. A dichotomy - sweet and tart, candied and earthy, familiar and exotic. No tannins to speak of  - the acid playing a much more important role in the framework and overall structure - making this a  versatile food-wine. I’d love to try it alongside middle-eastern fair.


Argentina, Malbec — Tags: ,

Isabel Sauvignon Blanc 2002

jseeds | October 24, 2007

isable1.jpg~US$20 100% Sauvigonon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

How does a great Sauvignon Blanc drink after 5 years?

Color: Very pale, some tiny bubbles
Nose: Fragrant - Mangos, pineapple, green tomatoes, some creamy notes as well
Palate: A flash of bright, fresh acidity, more mango and pineapple, canned sweet peas (Le Sueur) showing big on the midpalate
Finish: Short and abrupt, Asian plum candy

I have to admit, I haven’t had too many NZ Sauv blancs older than a few years, but I feel that this Isabel was unfortunately past it’s prime. While the nose showed a typical tropical flair, with some interesting green vegetable notes, the palate fell flat. The youthful zest and zing I usually expect with this wine was absent, and little else developed in it’s place. I hope to try an ‘06 to compare.


Domaine Paul Blanck Alsace Gewurztraminer 2003

jseeds | October 23, 2007

picture.jpg~ $20US 100% Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France

Color: Light Straw
Nose: Very aromatic, peach, pear, chamomile, river stones, cinnamon
Palate: Soft, round, and juicy. Delivers on what the nose promises, with the addition of lychee and peach syrup. Sweetness and a clean acidity co-mingle towards the finish, along with a march of pumpkin pie spice and stark chalkiness.
Finish: Tapered dryness, with mild with spice-box notes.

A complex nose leading to an easy-drinking, food-friendly-wine. Dry in style - no cloying sugars, just the natural sweetness of the fruit. The stony minerality is upfront and even a little aggressive to my tastes, but fades a bit with time in the glass. An excellent guest to bring to the local Chinese or Thai BYO restaurant. Or takeout…


JC Cellars 2003 Rockpile Vineyard Syrah Haley’s Reserve

jseeds | October 21, 2007

2003rockpile.jpg ~$40-50US 100% Syrah, Rockpile AVA, Sonoma, California

16.1% ABV required about 3+ hours for the heat to blow off…

Color: Aubergine
Nose: Very concentrated berry fruits, iodine, iron
Palate: Sappy, explosive fruits, still mineral water, mouth-coating, disciplined oak, tannins deliver solid structure
Finish: Oily, measured in minutes, black licorice

This California Syrah is very expressive and bursting with mountainy, rocky character. Hits the tongue with serious intent - power, volume, weight, sweet, and savory. Much more interesting (to my palate) than the majority of Australian Shiraz’s I have had in the last year. It not only offered fine tannic structure without over-oaking, but brought a whole family of mineral, stone, and medicinal components into the mix in a very compelling way.  I could see enjoying this a hearty beef and root vegetable stew, or drinking it on it’s own.


Red, Sonoma, Syrah — Tags: , ,

Filliatreau Saumur Champigny Grand Vignolle 2005

jseeds | October 17, 2007

Filliatreau Saumur Champigny Grand Vignolle 2005 from Labels at Wine Library~$14US 100% Cabernet Franc, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France

Nose: Red cherries, Autumn leaves, damp soil
Palate: Rollercoaster; Begins very broad and round, giving the illusion of big red fruits (like a big California Pinot), but transitions through the palate towards a leaner, almost bright finish. It never feels sweet, although as the tannins kick in later on the palate, the sweetness resides and the acidity plays the balancing role. Nice earth and fruit interplay.
Finish: Tobacco, very firm and vigorous.

Fresh and stimulating - but easy to drink. This Cab Franc displayed more earth and fruit than vegetables, and a mercurial palate. A great “gateway”wine to the Loire region. I would bet this will improve over the next 3-5 years in bottle as well. A perfect autumn lunch wine.


French Wine 101: Basic Decoding

jseeds | October 16, 2007

French wine is confusing. The labeling can easily dissuade the curious, the regions and estates difficult to pronounce (to non-French speakers), the hype-factor crazy and the pricing boggling. I hope to spend a few moments on the most basic info and a generalized overview the wines, with a few hints on navigating them. If you have any feedback, let me know - I have just learned much of this via multiple sources and experiences, and will always be learning - so please share!

Main Regions:

Bordeaux: Always a blend. Most will be called “Chateau something” on the label. The right bank of the Gironde is Merlot dominant, left bank and Cabernet dominant. Reds tend to be full-bodied, tannic, age-necessary wines. Whites, while rare, tend to be sweet dessert wines (Sauternes). Each chateau was classified in 1855 based on reputation, and these classifications must appear on the label as “Cru” or approximately growth. The most prized, including the 1er Cru (Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour, etc), offer complexity, long age-potential and a strong expression of the vineyard geography and character (a.k.a. terroir). The reds pair well with sturdy meats (beef, lamb, veal) or Roquefort, Brie and Camembert cheeses. Prepare to spend here and it pays seek recommendations before trying. Minimum recommended price $20US, maximum is up to you.

Grapes:
Red: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, supported by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cot (Malbec) and Carmenere
White: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
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Burgundy: Burgundy is more straightforward initially, but much more difficult to understand the deeper you go. Pinot Noir is the king grape here for red, Chardonnay for white. Those 2 grapes (never in blends) are truly the focus of the region and the reason for all the hubbub. Other than that, the Gamay grape is used in Beaujolais, and (rarely) Aligote for whites. Burgundy is divided into subregions, which appear on the label along with the producer and vineyard (if applicable). The vineyards are rated similarly to Bordeaux - via Crus. Basically, the more information on the label, the better quality the wine. For example. a wine simple labeled as Bourgogne, Domaine Anne Gros may contain grapes sourced from several Anne Gros vineyards, while one labeled Chambertin Clos de Beze, Leroy containing only grapes from Leroy’s individual parcel of Clos de Beze in Chambertin. It takes time to learn the regions, sub-regions, and vineyards and what kind of wine they produce - so ask your knowledgeable vendor before dropping $30+ on a basic bottle. Overall the Pinots are perfect food wines, and tend to be medium bodied, earthy and full of character. The Chardonnays are stylistically broad, from restrained and minerally Chablis, to complex, rich and hyper-expensive Montrachet. Most of these wines are built to last. The Gamay wines are fun, light-hearted and fresh.

Grapes:
Red: Pinot Noir, Gamay (Beaujolais)
White: Chardonnay, Aligote
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Rhone: The Rhone valley produces big, spicy red wines in several varieties and their aromatic white counterparts. In the Northern Rhone, Syrah is the king red grape, while Roussanne, Marsanne, and Vigioner are blended in whites. The sub-regions of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Cornas, and St. Joseph are all famous for their Syrah. Southern Rhone has a generally warmer climate, allowing Grenache to thrive, where it is blended with Mourvedre, Cinsaut, Carignan, and some Syrah in regions like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Cotes-du-Rhone is a broader-spanning term for wines from various subregions - in both the north and south. Cotes du Rhones from quality producers tend to be great values with complexity and power (via Syrah and Grenache) reminiscent of their more focused brethren (C-d-P, Hermitage). The whites are not as famous, but provide some fascinating and aromatic Viogner in Condrieu and Grillet, and Marsanne/Roussane blends in the primarily red sub-regions. All food friendly - especially grilled meats and rich stews.

Grapes:
Red: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsaut, Carignan, etc (up to 13 variatals in C-d-P)
White: Viogner, Marsanne, Rousanne
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Loire: The wines of the Loire valley tend to be fresh, lighter-styled, classically-French white and red wines. The whites from the regions of Puilly-Fume, Sancerre, Vouvray, and Savennières show the diversity of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc in expressions ranging from dry and zesty, to deep and sweet. Also - the Muscadet grapes makes a dry wine here that pairs sensationally with seafood. The red wines tend to be primarily Cabernet Franc in Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur, although some Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvigon, and Gamay is also grown. The reds tend to be restrained, old-world, medium-bodied, and very food friendly. Overall, these wines are superb with a broad range of lighter fare, great values, but never over-the-top (They would never be confused with a high-ABV, ripe, fruit-forward style wine).

Grapes:
Red: Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvigon, Gamay
White: Chenin Blanc, Muscadet, Sauvignon Blanc

Languedoc-Roussillon: Situated below the Southern Rhone, Languedoc-Roussillon produces a massive amount of wine, using many varietals - much in an everyday-table-wine style. This area is one of the oldest and largest wine-making areas in the world - attractive to both New-World and Old-World producers looking for an opportunity to create exciting blends and single-varietal wines. The big-spicy red Rhone varietals are the primary grapes, along with some Cabernet and Merlot. Many wines are mixed in blends, but the warmer climate and fewer restrictions offer fresh diversity vs their Rhone and Bordeaux cousins. Overall quality is rising, and specific regions like Minervois, Vin de Pays d’Oc, and Corbieres have made a name for themselves in the past decade for their deep purple, earthy, full-bodied blends - raising the bar. Solid values can be found here under $15US, but there are also many basic table wines masquerading in the $15-20US category. Look for reviews and seek advice before spending more that $15US.

Grapes:
Red: Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsaut, Carignan

Alsace: Aromatic white wines are Alsace’s claim to fame, mostly based on the Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris grapes. The styles range from bone-dry to sweet, and pair deftly with a broad range of foods, including tricky curries and spicy Asian dishes. They tend to be fragrant, floral, and spicy - and most are bottled as single varieties. Again, the diversity of styles and sweetness levels make the labels tricky. Most producers have a “house-style” that plots the majority of their wines at one spot on the sweet-to-dry continuum. Another basic trick (not always accurate) is the see the alcohol level - the lower ABVs tend to be sweeter, the higher, drier. The best way is to try for yourself, or ask a trusted shop. Always elegant, most often complex and interesting, these wine can be expensive, but tend to be of high quality and smart values.

Grapes:
White: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner


French — Tags:

Robert Karl Claret 2004

jseeds | October 15, 2007

Robert Karl Claret 2004 from Labels at Wine Library~$17US Claret blend: 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, and 10% Malbec, Columbia Valley, Washington

Nose: Black currant, bell peppers, pine sap
Palate: No doubt the strong suite here: Well-integrated tannins, smooth and round on the palate. Bell pepper again.
Finish: Slightly artificial caramel and vanilla notes detract from the overall restraint and balance

Easy-drinking. Well-crafted, generous, and balanced. A terrific value, but not blowing my mind with any 1 aspect or an overall impression…


Truchard Syrah 2001

jseeds | October 13, 2007

30765.jpg~$16US 100% Syrah, Carneros, Napa Valley

DECANT DECANT DECANT. I am quickly learning that the wine-enjoyment meter goes way up with patience and decanting. Case in point, this Carneros Syrah had 6 years of bottle age, and for a Cali wine, I though It would be a pop-n-pour. I did, and while it was promising, it had nowhere near the complexity, integration, balance, and drinkability that it had after 3 hours in the decanter. Deep ruby. Nose of blackberries, black pepper and blueberries. Just enough oak to play a part in the overall harmony. On the palate (after decanting), JUICY and lush berries, appetizing, warm-hearted. A pinch of cigar-box cedar and tobacco. Fine tannins make the transition to the from attack through finish purposeful, from juicy to dry. This wine shows the integration and mouthfeel of a much more expensive wine - and really has panache to make this a great value, compared to equally priced bizzombs from Oz (which have a time and a place all their own).

A very well made wine - what Cali syrah-gentsia should use as a benchmark for quality and price. In a perfect world, wines like this (QPR) should be available in every local wine-shop. Just decant it please!!!


Carneros, Napa, Syrah — Tags: , ,

2004 RM Reserve “Nelwood” Petit Verdot

jseeds | October 11, 2007

grp_petite_verdot.gif ~$22US 100% Petit Verdot, South Australia, Australia

Purchased “for educational purposes”; I rarely see single-variety Petit Verdot, especially from South Australia, so this was really a curiosity. Great deep red, garnet color. Opaque. The nose was interesting - my initial reaction was Shiraz-like, big, with spices and lush red and black fruits. Some veggy notes also - sugar-snap peas, and tomatoes. Then the oak-beastie busted in…and made it’s presence known. With a little air, the oak played out via vanilla and butterscotch notes, growing equal to the fruits. Berry-fruit trifle with butterscotch custard. The palate showed that this indeed is a big wine - not a fruit bomb, but a sturdy, fruity, oaky, tannic sweet-and-sour bomb. The components, including a welcomed acidity, were held in fairly good balance and integration. Leather, Spanish cedar, blueberry and black cherry flavors abounded. Only the finish was a little awkward, with juicy fruit notes at odds with aggressive mouth-drying tannins. I like this wine - while the oak was probably a bit over-the-top, it all came together tasting delicious.

A well-crafted wine that showed Petit Verdot’s strengths in a big way, without revealing the deficiencies.

Retasted on day 2 (Vac-u-vinned)
Deliciousness greatly reduced. Only over-oakiness remained, with massive butterscotch and a hint of cherry. Disjointed.


Joao Pato Touriga Nacional 2005

jseeds | October 10, 2007

33603.jpg~$9-12US 100% Touriga Nacional, Beira, Portugal

WBW38: Non-Douro Portuguese Wine

I felt like the odds were against me on this winebloggingwednesday - The criteria got things down to a small selection set, so I gambled based on price and label design. I popped this and noticed an opaque deep aubergine color. But I only noticed it for a second before the aromas wafted up into my poor olfactory apparatus. Porta-potty on a hot day. Sewing machine oil. This creation smelled foul. Very little fruit or wood or wine or anything a nose likes. I figured I best let this funk blow over, so I let the glass sit and swirl occasionally for a few hours. It become approachable after about 2 hours. Not great, but better- most of the funk blew off leaving a celery and orange-pip nose, and sour cherry taste.

Actually, the more air it got, the better. At 3 hours it was drinking more like a farmhouse Beaujolais or a rustic Loire red than sewer-water; with vegetal notes and a brisk acidity. The funk actually of grew on me when it became a second-tier flavor (although the initial taste did almost made me gag).

Trying unique varietals like Touriga Nacional is what this hobby is all about. While this wine started out pretty dire, time in the decanter improved the overall experience, delivering a wine with complexity and character. Thank you WBW.


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