~$16US, 80% Zweigelt and 20% Blaufränkisch, Mittelburgenland, Austria

My first Austrian Red. Deep red, more opaque than I’d imagined for some reason.  One the nose cherries and cranberries, with a good deal of funk in the mix (Sweaty socks, wet leaves, a little dirt and green peppers), reminding me of an imaginary blend of a Cru Beaujolais and a Loire red.  But smokier?

On the palate very juicy, round, and medium-bodied - with a really satisfying balance of fruit, tannins, and acidity. Very much a mix of old- and new-world experiences with plump, ripe cherries and a bizarre fringe of earthy flavors. Tomato skins and more cranberries throughout  - even a touch of meatiness. A little bitterness towards the finish, but fair length and some tannic bite, even on day 2.  Some pencil shavings and a hint of oak-spice show in the finish. Quite a bit of complexity actually. Food friendly structure - I’d try it with turkey.

To me, the overall feel was more Burgundian than any other of my points of reference - which is admirable in any $16 wine.  This is not a wine for everyone, but for those into old-world Gamay, Cab Franc, and Pinot Noir, you might be supprised with what Austria can offer. As interesting as it was, I’ll probably not re-buy , but I will be on the lookout for more red Austrians.

~$15US, 95% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, Toro, Spain

I’ve been haunted by the Flor de Pingus I had a few months ago with it’s rich fruit and earthy, primordial robustness. I can’t imagine what the actual Pingus is like - but in any case, I’ve been looking for another Tempranillo that can deliver even a bit of that flavor profile at an everyday price. The Prima does a great job of hitting a few of key flavor buttons in the under $20US range.

Super-dark inky purple. Beautiful nose of plums and blackberries, with an wonderful tobacco and leather underlaying. The oak is poking out a little, but does not intrude - it ads a slight vanilla edge. Volumnous and big on the palate, with blackberries and maduro tobacco. A touch of heat from the 14.5%ABV. Firm tannins. Concentrated and tight still - it needed some time to unwind.

Day 2: A luxurious evolution to a much more velvety and integrated wine. This is not going to win awards for elegance, but there is good scale and complexity, with 2nd and 3rd tier flavors (some espresso, violet and lavender aspects). The oak still there, still not overpowering the fruit, but there. 4-6 more years would probably make this wine rock even more.

This is a genuine and accessible wine - highly recommended and easy to love.

~$45US, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Lone Canyon Vineyard, Napa Valley

Midnight Black Ink.

Of all the wines to spill on the wool rug…

In any case, what was left in the bottle was extremely sturdy (eek Infanticide!) - A tannic beast that evolved very slowly over 7 days to reveal bunches of cherries, plums and leather. Mountain fruit indeed.

For me, this was more of a curiousity at this point - I had no idea what to expect, and I cannot imagine where this will go, and how long it will take to get there - but don’t drink it around toddlers and/or furniture.

~$21US, 100%Riesling, Urziger Wurzgarten, Mosel, Germany

Fragrant yellow peach and apricot preserves. Very primary and ripe at this point - leaning towards a touch more sweetness than the acids can balance. After 2 days - more integration and secondary flavors play out, with ripe watermelon, plum candy and slate on the finish. More elegant and food friendly with the air time as the acidity comes into focus. This is drinking well right now, but but there are better values offering much of the same in the near-term. However I believe this has the potential to become an excellent Riesling with 5-7 years patience.

A stark contrast with the Leitz in terms of balance and flavor, once again demonstrating the fascinating breadth of Riesling.

~$15US, 60% Merlot / 20% Cab Sauv / 20% Cab Franc, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France

Ruby-garnet color. Shy nose, with some black cherry and plum. A little mildew/seaweed earthiness in the mix to - but not detracting. Juicy palate - with a soft approach supported by some fine tannins. An attractive sweetness towards the finish. Quite drinkable now, and probably for the next 3 years.

A solid wine that opened up nicely over the course of 2 days. I can’t complain, and I can’t find many faults for a Bordeaux in this price range. Quality Cotes de Castillon - but for me, many other $15 wines have left a stronger impression on me.

~$15US, 100% Riesling, Rheingau, Germany

Slight hay color. The nose brings gobs of marzipan, green apple, white peach, some red cherry and wet slate. Powerful, fresh and vibrant. The wine bursts wide on the palate gripping the tongue with tons of ripe fruit, teasing with a notion of sweetness, then drilling towards a tangy, clean finish.  Passionfruit and guava in the mix. Right now this is a wild ride of a wine - an extraordinary amount of fruit without going into sweet-tooth land, balanced with ripping key-lime acidity.

This is the proverbial fruit scalpel to the proverbial fruit hatchet. I can’t imagine another Riesling at this price I’d rather have with Indian food. Kudos Josef-L - 2007 is looking like a classic and beautiful year in the Rheingau, after a slightly outsized 2006.

In my…commitment…to understand the scope and reach of Bordeaux’s varietals in their blended forms, I had a packed week/weekend featuring three of the five (Cab Franc, Sauv. and Merlot), blended with a few additional curveballs.  The lay of the land is quite interesting. I put the Nolados and the Cambra at the top, the Geol and Picque Caillou on the bottom.

I hope to try North and South American efforts plus an Italian to complete the circle.

Dominio Buenavista, Veleta ‘Nolados’ 2005

~$14US, 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Tempranillo, Vino de la Tierra Contraviesa Alpujarra, Granada, Spain

Deep ruby-purple. Heady aromas of plum, cassis, supported by red cherries and a subtle earthiness and minerality beyond. On day 1, the fruit was had big presence front and center, but it was not overpowered by the acidic lift and fine, but tight tannins. Deftly integrated oak - some spices and caramel, but again, balanced and harmonious. On day 3, the wine was generously evolved, smooth as silk with secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas…leather, tobacco, and a dusty, gravelly road. Tons of old world character lurking behind ripe-new-worldly fruits. And sweet tannins moving towards a clean finish.

I would have probably overlooked this wine, had it not been for a lucky tasting with the head of the estate, Dr. Juan Palomar and wife, locally last year. Their efforts are truly a great success -  This wine is a home run and an astounding value.

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Rafael Cambra ‘Dos’

~$20US, 50% Cabernet Savignon, 50% Cabernet Franc, Valencia, Spain

While his Monestrall-based ‘Uno’ was less impressive to me, the ‘Dos’ delivered the goods. Deep dark violet color. The shy nose that opening up over the course of 5-6 hours - showing cherries and red currant, with a floral overtone. A little wet straw, bay leaf, green pepper and orange-zest too. The palate was full and vibrant, with a great acidity and structure - which softened to become almost lush, aside from some alcoholic bite on the backend. There’s a zesty Priorat-like schiste flavor on the finish. Sturdy.

This is a very precise and focused wine, with a understated elegance and an exotic streak. Bordeaux meets Priorat. Only a smidge less ABV would’ve made this classic. Maybe the 2004 or 2006  are a little less hot - I hope to try.

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Thomas Cusine ‘GEOL’ 2005

~$21US, 65% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Carinena, Costers del Segre, Spain

A Monsterous blast of fruit from popping the cork to pouring…This is a ripping, ripe, large-scaled wine, and not your father’s Merlot. Lots of stewed fruit, plums, blackberries, and cherries. Some disintegration with a sweet syrupy oakiness, which turn me off a little. Very concentrated. The tannins seem medium, but the alcohol definitely seems hotter that the 14.5% ABV on label. But beneath lies an energy gives the wine momentum and keep it from flabbing out. This is a full-throttle primary fruit monster right now…It may become more complex and settle down, but there is plenty to enjoy if you’re in the mood now.

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Château Picque Caillou 2005

~$20US, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux France

Beguiling aromas of Cherry cordials, tobacco, Spanish cedar, and sandalwood. Interesting and full of character - but a little thin through the palate. Clean minerality in the finish. Firm tannins and forward acidity probaby portent a good chance of fattening up in bottle over the next 3-5 years. Wait on this one - while the nose is cool - the palate is dissappointing right now.

We Poached some salmon last night and tried to pair it with a French red, to varying degrees of success.

First up: Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Domaine De La Croix Jacquelet, 2004

Pinot Noir. Very pale ruby color. Shy nose -almost nonexistent. Clearly something wrong on the palate - very very thin and acidic. Fiercely so -and bitter -especially on the finish. Undrinkable upon pouring, I decanted to see what would happen after a few hours. Nope. This wine was either flawed in some way, or is simply an unsuccessful effort. Disappointing.

Next: Michel Tête (domaine du Clos du Fief) Juliénas Vieilles Vignes 2006

Gamay. Better - Richer ruby color and a huge amount of strawberries wafting from the glass. A definite balsamic note coming through, along with a little clove, violet, and pencil shavings. Lean, with a strong acidic lift and ripe fruit - but missing a little something in the middle. It did fatten up with air-time and thus was much easier to enjoy with the fish. Thumbs up, and clearer the stronger wine of the two, but I almost wish I would’ve waited on this bottle.

Thanks to all those who showed up for the weekend tastings at Liquor Direct.   For any who missed, we tasted through a line-up of old-world food-friendly wines, including the “always-have-a-bottle-in-the-fridge” Riondo Prosecco, the superb value Michel Picard Vouvray 2006, the always elegant Donnhoff Estate Riesling 2006, the versatile Piemonte blend Fontanafredda Eremo 2005, and the over-achieving Mas de Gourgonnier 2006 Les Baux, Provence Blend. Hopefully a few folks tried something they may have otherwised overlooked.

A special thanks to Shannon, Jesse, Kevin and the outstanding team that made the event a pleasure - I hope the opportunity comes ’round again.

A few weeks old, but Sad news indeed. Dagueneau was an intense and unrelenting force in the Loire Valley.