This Riesling (~$23US) from the utterly unfailing portfolio of Terry Thiese has been described as one of the best Riesling values in his 2008 book. Unlike the majority of its countrymen, it was sealed with a cork - albeit synthetic - which is fine by me. It poured a mellow golden color, quite a bit richer in color than the Hirsch a few weeks ago. Leaping from the glass with surprising complexity - very clear apricots, surrounded with wintergreen, pine tree, red cherry and pineapple.

The palate was a ripe fruit extravaganza - I hesitate to call it hedonistic, but the fruit was there for the picking. Apricots and cherries, balsam, with a maritime character underneath. Bone dry at 13% ABV, with no heat and a fullness and weight that was rich but never fat. Transitioned beautifully. It loosened up overtime, becaming rounder and easier to dillineate the flavors. Seductive, polished, well-proportioned.

~$16US, 80% Zweigelt and 20% Blaufränkisch, Mittelburgenland, Austria

My first Austrian Red. Deep red, more opaque than I’d imagined for some reason.  One the nose cherries and cranberries, with a good deal of funk in the mix (Sweaty socks, wet leaves, a little dirt and green peppers), reminding me of an imaginary blend of a Cru Beaujolais and a Loire red.  But smokier?

On the palate very juicy, round, and medium-bodied - with a really satisfying balance of fruit, tannins, and acidity. Very much a mix of old- and new-world experiences with plump, ripe cherries and a bizarre fringe of earthy flavors. Tomato skins and more cranberries throughout  - even a touch of meatiness. A little bitterness towards the finish, but fair length and some tannic bite, even on day 2.  Some pencil shavings and a hint of oak-spice show in the finish. Quite a bit of complexity actually. Food friendly structure - I’d try it with turkey.

To me, the overall feel was more Burgundian than any other of my points of reference - which is admirable in any $16 wine.  This is not a wine for everyone, but for those into old-world Gamay, Cab Franc, and Pinot Noir, you might be supprised with what Austria can offer. As interesting as it was, I’ll probably not re-buy , but I will be on the lookout for more red Austrians.

~$US15, 100% Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal Austria

Lemony-limey nose with some mushroom earth-funk. Lush Creamsicle body with tons of mandarin orange. Wonderful acidic lift beneath the soft body. Expressive chalky and spicy finish. Lipsmaking wine and gobsmacking value.

2 very interesting wines in the sub-$12 range. Both sort of one-trick-ponies, but the tricks were distinctive and cool. The Zantho was light bodied but almost overwhelmingly lemony and piney - aromatically and on the palate. Very purfumed. Mineral / stoniness comes across as a supporting role from nose to finish. Pine Sol exactly. Bone dry. Fresh, bright acidity means this would pair great with shellfish and seafood. Interestingly, I left this in the decanter overnight to taste in the morning - and it tasted even better?! The acidity integrated and the wine overall was a little plumper and softer. I’d love to see what a dry Muscat tastes like after 15 years in the cellar…anyone have that opportunity?

The Riondo Prosecco was all about Banana Now-and-Laters (my wife pinpointed this - thanks m) and white balsamic vinegar. Tiny bubbles filled the palate, with a very light and ethereal body. Refreshing and probably better before dinner than with the Thai and Sushi we enjoyed (which wasn’t a bad match by any means). This is quite dry, but I did detect a slight residual sugar to keep it drinkable and balance the acidity. Fun and cheap - everyone should have a bottle on hand for nights when champagne might be too opulent, and beer doesn’t suit the mood.

Hofer Gruner Veltliner, Frieberg 2005:

Very light straw color. Very aromatically complex and expressive nose; mercurial transitions through apple skin, some cherry, lime, white peach, bok choy, haricot verts, toasted bread, and gravel. Characteristic aromas of Old-world Rieslings, Chenin Blancs, and Sauv Blancs all seem to pop in and out of focus. Bone dry, with such an intense mineral-water/saline character it’s almost obnoxious. The finish is just a gravelly landslide that smooths out over a minute. Refreshing; begging for the next sip. This could stand up to hard-to-pair foods like Mexican and Japanese. For terroir-hounds like myself, this is a revelation - so much of the vineyard and the vintage is there to discover and taste. Fans of Sancerre, Poully-Fume, and  dry Rieslings owe themselfves a taste of this value monster.

Curatolo Grillo Tumoli, Sicilia 2006:

A little tighter on the nose, showing mysterious floral, citrus and peach-pit notes. Big, on the palate, but with a great linearity and focus. Clean and fresh. Acidity is very balanced - not sour but punchy enough to give structure and direction. Overall the fruit is restrained (it’s there, but not centerstage), but there is a great underlying river-rocks-and-flowers foundation that makes the wine real. Grilled shrimp or squid would love this.

Both can be found under $14US with little hunting . To my tastes, the Hofer had the edge (mainly in aromatics and overall complexity), but I feel more people might enjoy the Grillo as a patio-pounder-eay-drinking-weeknight-white.