100% Chenin Blanc, Savienneres, Loire Valley, France

My first wine from banker-turned-biodynamic-zealot Nicholas Joly. This wine was offered as a great price from local wine-bar that seems to be doing things really right, Chalk. The also had the big brother, one of my ‘grail’  wines, the Coulée de Serrant - which is known for improving over the span of a week in the decanter.

The ‘03 Clos Sacres was born on a warmer year in the Loire, which typically means more exhuberance and ripe character than the classical ‘02 and ‘04. The color was a striking gold portenting richness and maybe some (good in my book) oxidation. On the nose, honey and flowers all over the place - chamomile, acacia, orange blossom - held together with a lemony core.

The palate, seductive and tricky - the nose pointed towards a more unctuous, sweet style, but the palate clearly maintained a central nerve of acidity and lift. Medium weight but altogether fresh, with some almond  nuttiness and some tropicalia coming through on the midpalate.  Finished long and dry, as Savennieres typically do. Beautiful pairing with sweetbreads or heartier fish dishes.

This is a living, evolving wine, which demands attention. I was crazy about it- and most of my friends enjoyed it and had to take a pause to think about how unusual it was.  Superb.  I hope I have the opportunity to try its big brother soon…

These two beautiful off-the-path wines kept us warm and cozy through the first snowy weekend of the season. Both of them kicked their game up when paired with foods - becoming like an ingredient or component to the dishes.

Etxegaraya, Cuvée Lehengoa 2006, Irouleguy, France

This dark and rich Tannat blend (from 150 yr old vines!?) offered aromas of black cherries with a dollup of savory goodness (peppers, meatiness, tomato?) - almost Chinon-like, but bolder. The palate was large-scaled, but wonderfully fresh - the tannins present, but much more integrated that I’d expected. An interesting orange-zest and clove note came through on the finish. With time, this wine rounded out and softened - just a joy to drink. This just rocked the house with a rustic beef stew and boiled parsley potatoes.

Domaine du Clos d’Alari, Grand Clos 2004, Cotes du Provence, France

This Syrah/Grenache blend exhibited a gemlike deep ruby color, and a mix of ripe plums, red cherries and peppery-herby aromas. Medium bodied and drinking just-right now -  there was some honest structure and soul to this bottle. Black pepper and a rustic meatiness came through on the palate. Towards the finish, some Cabernet notes emerged (currant and peppers, with a dusty tannic edge) bringing some complexity to this Southern-Rhone ringer. It was maybe a tad too hefty for the pasta dish, but from a flavor standpoint, it married so well with the proscuitto, basil, and oregano flavors.

Domaine de l’Hortus, Bergerie Classique Rouge 2005:

~$15US, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Pic-St. Loup Languedoc, France

Raspberries and V8 Juice. A round and accessible wine, with a nice viscosity and fleshiness. Plush tannnins. Some subtle wild herbs and spices lead to a minerally finish. A Medium-full bodied wine drinking well right now - I’d pair it with a tomato-beef stew. A distinctive terroir-driven twist on a classic Rhone blend. As with the rest of Orliac’s wines, a strong buy.

Mas de Gourgonnier: Baux de Provence 2006
~$15US, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvedre, Baux de Provence, France

Rustic and deep - with very clearly articulated violets and lavender on the nose. Mixed berries and lively acidity. A little leather and hay. The tannins here are stiff but ripe and showed much more integration on the second day. Reminescent of a very good Cotes-du-Rhone Village. This has another 3-5 years in bottle to flourish and would do well with a rib-steak or anything that you’d sprinkle (duh) Herbs-de-Provence onto. This is some serious juice under $20 - although I think the Bergerie’s palate was a touch more distinctive and graceful on my palate.

Jean-Philippe Charpentier, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Peyriac Rouge, 2003: A clean, lean and elegant wine from around the Minervois region. I’ve no idea what the cepage is, but I believe there to be a good portion of Carignan and maybe some Mourvedre and Grenache. Strawberries, thyme and balsam zipping around of the palate. The sturdy structure integrated and smoothed out on the 2nd day - but started to fall apart after the third. Medium-full bodied and quitly confident. Crushed rocks and strawberry Pez on the finish - Priorat-like - I wouldn’t be surprised if some there was some schistey/rocky soils in the vineyard. A character-full wine for the price (>$15US) for fellow terroir-heads.

Bernard Baudry, Chinon ‘Franc de Pied’, 2002: This bottle jumped out to me on the wine-list of local wine-bar-restaurant Chalk - at a good price on a bottle I’ve rarely seen at retail. Popped and poured.

Baryard funkdified, murky and massively old-skool. I loved it, but my wife was less convinced, especially by the nose. Classic Cabernet Franc flavors like bell pepper, V8 juice, and cherries. Some curious curry and saddle-leather in the mix. Chewy and round palate - this wine is beautifully open right now and probably wil be for a year or 2. Medium-bodied and a good mate to the duck and burger we had. Unfortunately, this vineyard succumbed to phylloxera a few years ago  - 2006 being the final vintage.

Domaine Oratoire St Martin, Côtes du Rhône, 2005: Probably the most accessible and easiest to love of the 3 wines - this Grenache-based red was singing with a buckets of strawberries and blueberries, pepper-spice, and minerality. Some Quince and plum. Great aromatics - I could smell the fruits across the room. Killer body and palate -  a spicy attack, generous and round-mouthfilling middle, and a welcome acidic lift on the backend. Smacking gravelly finish. Food friendly and still on the upswing in terms of longevity - This will be a repeat performer at our place, no doubt.

~$15US, 60% Merlot / 20% Cab Sauv / 20% Cab Franc, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France

Ruby-garnet color. Shy nose, with some black cherry and plum. A little mildew/seaweed earthiness in the mix to - but not detracting. Juicy palate - with a soft approach supported by some fine tannins. An attractive sweetness towards the finish. Quite drinkable now, and probably for the next 3 years.

A solid wine that opened up nicely over the course of 2 days. I can’t complain, and I can’t find many faults for a Bordeaux in this price range. Quality Cotes de Castillon - but for me, many other $15 wines have left a stronger impression on me.

In my…commitment…to understand the scope and reach of Bordeaux’s varietals in their blended forms, I had a packed week/weekend featuring three of the five (Cab Franc, Sauv. and Merlot), blended with a few additional curveballs.  The lay of the land is quite interesting. I put the Nolados and the Cambra at the top, the Geol and Picque Caillou on the bottom.

I hope to try North and South American efforts plus an Italian to complete the circle.

Dominio Buenavista, Veleta ‘Nolados’ 2005

~$14US, 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Tempranillo, Vino de la Tierra Contraviesa Alpujarra, Granada, Spain

Deep ruby-purple. Heady aromas of plum, cassis, supported by red cherries and a subtle earthiness and minerality beyond. On day 1, the fruit was had big presence front and center, but it was not overpowered by the acidic lift and fine, but tight tannins. Deftly integrated oak - some spices and caramel, but again, balanced and harmonious. On day 3, the wine was generously evolved, smooth as silk with secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas…leather, tobacco, and a dusty, gravelly road. Tons of old world character lurking behind ripe-new-worldly fruits. And sweet tannins moving towards a clean finish.

I would have probably overlooked this wine, had it not been for a lucky tasting with the head of the estate, Dr. Juan Palomar and wife, locally last year. Their efforts are truly a great success -  This wine is a home run and an astounding value.

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Rafael Cambra ‘Dos’

~$20US, 50% Cabernet Savignon, 50% Cabernet Franc, Valencia, Spain

While his Monestrall-based ‘Uno’ was less impressive to me, the ‘Dos’ delivered the goods. Deep dark violet color. The shy nose that opening up over the course of 5-6 hours - showing cherries and red currant, with a floral overtone. A little wet straw, bay leaf, green pepper and orange-zest too. The palate was full and vibrant, with a great acidity and structure - which softened to become almost lush, aside from some alcoholic bite on the backend. There’s a zesty Priorat-like schiste flavor on the finish. Sturdy.

This is a very precise and focused wine, with a understated elegance and an exotic streak. Bordeaux meets Priorat. Only a smidge less ABV would’ve made this classic. Maybe the 2004 or 2006  are a little less hot - I hope to try.

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Thomas Cusine ‘GEOL’ 2005

~$21US, 65% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Carinena, Costers del Segre, Spain

A Monsterous blast of fruit from popping the cork to pouring…This is a ripping, ripe, large-scaled wine, and not your father’s Merlot. Lots of stewed fruit, plums, blackberries, and cherries. Some disintegration with a sweet syrupy oakiness, which turn me off a little. Very concentrated. The tannins seem medium, but the alcohol definitely seems hotter that the 14.5% ABV on label. But beneath lies an energy gives the wine momentum and keep it from flabbing out. This is a full-throttle primary fruit monster right now…It may become more complex and settle down, but there is plenty to enjoy if you’re in the mood now.

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Château Picque Caillou 2005

~$20US, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux France

Beguiling aromas of Cherry cordials, tobacco, Spanish cedar, and sandalwood. Interesting and full of character - but a little thin through the palate. Clean minerality in the finish. Firm tannins and forward acidity probaby portent a good chance of fattening up in bottle over the next 3-5 years. Wait on this one - while the nose is cool - the palate is dissappointing right now.

We Poached some salmon last night and tried to pair it with a French red, to varying degrees of success.

First up: Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Domaine De La Croix Jacquelet, 2004

Pinot Noir. Very pale ruby color. Shy nose -almost nonexistent. Clearly something wrong on the palate - very very thin and acidic. Fiercely so -and bitter -especially on the finish. Undrinkable upon pouring, I decanted to see what would happen after a few hours. Nope. This wine was either flawed in some way, or is simply an unsuccessful effort. Disappointing.

Next: Michel Tête (domaine du Clos du Fief) Juliénas Vieilles Vignes 2006

Gamay. Better - Richer ruby color and a huge amount of strawberries wafting from the glass. A definite balsamic note coming through, along with a little clove, violet, and pencil shavings. Lean, with a strong acidic lift and ripe fruit - but missing a little something in the middle. It did fatten up with air-time and thus was much easier to enjoy with the fish. Thumbs up, and clearer the stronger wine of the two, but I almost wish I would’ve waited on this bottle.

~15$US, 100% Cabernet Franc, Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France

The unsung red wines from the Loire Valley tend to be my goto wines when I’m having trouble deciding on a food-wine pairing. They tend to be lighter-bodied than most domestic reds, and less of a gamble in the sub-$20 range in terms of oaking/manipulation/obliteration that can rob a younger wine of it’s food-friendlieness.

The major red grape of the Loire is Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Saugivnon’s old-school Dad - Sauvignon Blanc being the Mom), and in regions like Chinon and Bourgueil the varietal has been taken to great heights in terms of quality and experience. The best of these wines are very age-worthy and in the past they’ve held as much esteem as great Bordeaux. But as daily drinkers, they offer solid values for the old-world palate.

This entry-level Bourgueil is a little shy on the nose, but typical sugar-snap peas and bing cherries come through. The nose is echoed on the palate - but much more lively and snappy - with an over-riding cleanliness to the fruit. Some Bourgueils can get a little “boggy” with wet leaves and soggy tobacco - but this stays out of the muck with bright cherry and some hot spice (cinnamon?) flavors. Great acidity and medium-fine tannins make this terrific with any meat dish that has a lots of vegetables along with it.

Sleek but solid, and not over-the-top in any one aspect.

~$15US, 100% Cabernet Franc, Bougueil, Loire Valley, France

Via Kermit Lynch. Berry patch vs. vegetable garden. Fresh spinach and tart cherries, with a slight bell-pepper aroma. I expected a bit more brawn given the vintage, but the wine proved to be light-medium bodied with surprisingly bright acidity. Dusty tannins smoothed out and sweetened as the wine breathed. Chalky mineral-laden finish. Oh-so-drinkable weeknight food wine - it was empty when I went for that last glass.

Old-skool, old-world Loire Cabernet Franc, for pasta primavera and grilled chicken. Another year or two in bottle would beef up this this mustachioed-vest-wearing-sonumagun-of-a-wine.

~$14US, 100% Gamay Noir, Chenas, Cru Beaujolais, France

Ruby color. Pencils and crayons and cherries. Zesty acidity but a lovely round ripeness to the fruit. Complexity via herbal notes in the finish - sage and thyme, with a little woody asparagus. Medium bodied an edge of firm tannins to close the deal. A very fine Chenas with at least  2 more years of upside potential.