~$14US. 100% Scheurebe, Rhienhessen, Germany

Scheurebe?! (Shoy-raybah) is an early 20th century hybrid grape - the scientific results of crossing Riesling with a wild vine (some speculate Sylvaner) to create a more resliant, robust grape. When grapes are hybridized, a wierd Gestalt thing tends to happen and the results are almost never a simple 1+2=3 equation (think Cabernet Franc + Sauvignon Blanc yielding Cabernet Sauvignon wayyyyy back when). That being said, there are some similarities with Riesling here (high acidity and the vinification within the QmP system - Kabinett ‘rating’) but it clearly has a feel all its own.

This is a highly aromatic wine - with fruit coming into precise focus. Where a Riesling might tend more toward apple, pear and peach - this was so obviously orange Creamsicle and red currant. The profound expression of red currant here is moreso than any red wine I’ve ever had. Some jasmine too. On the palate the wine is a swell ride: it moves from the well-concentrated, ripe fruit through a touch or orange-pip-bitterness and comes to a close with firm acidic lift. It’s definitely on the riper side, but Geil nailed the balance. I could see how an Beerenauslese or TBA Scheurebe could be very seductive.

There are gobs of character and fun here, especially for those who enjoy food pairing. It lit up with citrusy/spicy Chinese cuisine. I would try this with all types of food - both exotic and the ordinary - to see how the sweet/sour/orange/currant components play with others. Tonkatsu? sure. Pork belly? yum. Pancakes with bacon? I’d give it a try…More applause for the impeccable Thiese catalog - This is definitely not a curiousity -This this is real, solid wine that I will certainly revisit and experiment with.

~$21US, 100%Riesling, Urziger Wurzgarten, Mosel, Germany

Fragrant yellow peach and apricot preserves. Very primary and ripe at this point - leaning towards a touch more sweetness than the acids can balance. After 2 days - more integration and secondary flavors play out, with ripe watermelon, plum candy and slate on the finish. More elegant and food friendly with the air time as the acidity comes into focus. This is drinking well right now, but but there are better values offering much of the same in the near-term. However I believe this has the potential to become an excellent Riesling with 5-7 years patience.

A stark contrast with the Leitz in terms of balance and flavor, once again demonstrating the fascinating breadth of Riesling.

~$15US, 100% Riesling, Rheingau, Germany

Slight hay color. The nose brings gobs of marzipan, green apple, white peach, some red cherry and wet slate. Powerful, fresh and vibrant. The wine bursts wide on the palate gripping the tongue with tons of ripe fruit, teasing with a notion of sweetness, then drilling towards a tangy, clean finish.  Passionfruit and guava in the mix. Right now this is a wild ride of a wine - an extraordinary amount of fruit without going into sweet-tooth land, balanced with ripping key-lime acidity.

This is the proverbial fruit scalpel to the proverbial fruit hatchet. I can’t imagine another Riesling at this price I’d rather have with Indian food. Kudos Josef-L - 2007 is looking like a classic and beautiful year in the Rheingau, after a slightly outsized 2006.

~$22US, 100% Riesling, Erdener Treppchen Vineyard, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

I don’t know why, but I’ve been a little afraid of the ‘A’ word when it comes to German Rieslings. ‘A’ as in Auslese or Selected Harvest - typically meaning selected ripe berries. The lightbulb went off in my head after the recent fantastic Donnhoff Spatlese, where I realized that these labels (Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, etc) are quality markers, not necessarily universal sweetness indicators. No doubt, Riesling can be high in residual sugars, especially Auslesen, but there is a lot more going on than just ’sweet’.

Riesling’s core minerality and acidity affords it’s flexibility and interpretive diversity. For instance - the longer hang-times of Spatlesen or Auslesen concentrate flavors (including sugars and acidity). Of course the weather, climate, and place affect exactly how and how well this happens, but the results (in the hands of able growers) can be strikingly balanced, proportionate and concentrated wines, from dry to dessert styles. 

The Merkelbach poured a pale hay, almost clear. Honeysuckle and pears on the nose. The palate moved from ripe apples and pears to a powerful mineral-driven midpalate - like a hitting a gravel speedbump while dragging your tongue on a smooth nectary road. The lemon/lime acidity charged back with some nice lift, but lacked a little oomph to really take it all the way home. 

Another very versatile wine, easy to enjoy with aged cheeses, by itself, or with all kinds of food (richer pork and grilled chicken dishes especially). A delicious example, not one to overthink - but I’m not afraid of Auslesen anymore. 

~$46US, 100% Riesling, Nahe, Germany

Helmut Donnhoff is a master wine-creator, without question. His family’s Nahe vineyards produce exemplary Rieslings that stand up to any in the world, each with a signature sense of balance, place and power.

The Oberhauser Brucke is absolutely shocking in its intensity across the board, from nose to finish. There is a sense of infusion, like the liquid had been invisibly fortified by more Riesling-ness. Dazzling and complex on the nose, with pineapple, lime, and green apple on the top end and a substantial base of red cherry, red apple, and red currant. Even strawberry. Vivid like a kaleidoscope, but hard to pin down definitively.

Viscious palate transitioning from the lush fruit towards a brilliant acidity - like a gemstone hiding in a velvet bag. Perfect balance, I never once even considered the notion of ’sweetness’ or ‘acidity’ or ‘minerality’….everything just seems so right, concentrated, full of energy and vibrancy.  Of course it was all there, but the qualities of each played into an overall transcendent harmony. A singular wine enjoyable now, but full of complexities to be revealved over the next 10-20 years. One of the most memorable wines this year.

~$14US, 100% Riesling, Rheingau, Germany

Leitz’s Dragonstone is a wine I keep coming back to, despite not really getting it on first tasting. I gave it a second try a few months ago and was able to observe some nice evolution in the bottle - the early 2005s had a fierce minerality supported by great fruit, nearing a spatlese-level of ripeness (at least to my palate) - but it was disjointed. The later 05’s started to get that beautiful petrolly aspect along with a tapering of the fruit and an integration of the slatey mineral notes - making for an altogether more mature, harmonious and integrated wine. It was a welcome change, and I was interested to see if the 06’s followed suit.

My first ‘06 poured a very very pale straw - almost clear. The aromatics were obvious and clean with dominant white peach and fresh apple juice. Some nectary/floral notes beyond the fruit, and the tell-tale mineral rocky aromas that I’ve come to associate with this wine.

On the palate, I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness compared to the ‘05. On entry, the fruit ripeness dominates - but the brisk acidity comes dashing through to balance the wine perfectly - ever so slightly off-dry and chalky on the finish. Light-to-medium palate-feel and enough complexity/vineyard character/etc at this price point to keep my wife and I pouring more. In recent memory, I’m not sure I can remember a wine that was as simply refreshing to sip alongside a meal.

Very well-crafted, distinctive, refreshing and food-friendly - what else is would you need for a perfect summertime white? And I’m pretty sure that it will evolve in the bottle for a few years for anyone who has enough patience and discipline not to drink it now - but for me, I”ll be drinking it.

  (<- borrowed wrong label) ~$12US / LITER!, 100% Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Very tropical on the nose - pineapple, lime, and peaches. Spritzy with very firm acidity - moreso than the last 2 rieslings I’ve had, despite the overall impression of this as being sweeter on the palate.The signature Mosel slate-flavors seem to be subdued, but for the price, this really deliver great fruit and food-friendliness.  It paired will with Korean short-ribs.Wicked value for the liter. 

~$17US, 100% Riesling, Nahe GermanyUber-fresh, and little spritzy. Canned peaches, definite lime and a little gravel. Extremely fruity and concentrated. Creamy mouthfeel, with very integrated mineral flavors - a little slack in the acid department, so the overall impression is quite ripe - but the quality of the fruit is top-class. A little bitterness as it moves towards the finish, but the finish itself is nice and long.Overall, this effort is more ripe and decadent and less complex, but the wine shows plenty of vineyard and regional character to give it uniqueness. Perfect with a wide range of food . I’d recommend this to Riesling beginners, but it is easily enjoyed by all.

 (image is of Kabinett) ~$16US, 100% Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Straw. Classic Mosel nose of dusty slate and yellow fruits.  Fresh pipe peaches and stewed apricots in the mouth - just lush and delicious. Definitely sweety-fruity through he midpalate, but balanced with enough acidic lift to change directions and finish dry. The sweetness integrated great with food - as a contrast to a Cuban-roasted pork tenderloin, and a complement to the roasted butternut squash alongside it. As the wine settled at room temperature, it became a little cloying and lost a little focus in the finish. Overall a really fun weeknight wine, offering food-friendliness, balanced acidity, interesting minerality and pure fruit - all things which I find myself prizing in wine more and more. 

~$15US 100% Riesling, QbA, Rhiengau Germany
A very pale and clean Riesling. Exerts a massive stony minerality on the nose, along with a strong bilious acidity (alkalinity?) and some dried apricots. An all-out assault on the palate: Peach-syrupy sweet, a crazy tingle just to confound the tongue, and a short quiver of cider-acidity. Finshes with a lemon drop. Disjointed overall, the cloying up-front sweetness fights with the spiky mineral notes. Maybe more acidity or the right food pairing would save this. Vindaloo anyone?

A 2-note (dis)chord: Sweet and Wierd. Not for me.