~$18US, 100% Cortese, Gavi di Gavi

Gavi is one of the Piemontese wines you don’t hear a lot about…but it’s a wine that is working hard to outgrow the notion of  being a “quaffer”.  While I believe a lot more Gavi gets consumed than people are talking  about -  this wine from the massive hands of Stefano Moccagatta bears mentioning as a serious example of what the region has to offer.

First of all, the bottle shape and label are beautifully quirky and minimal - like some sort of modern potion. The clear bottle reveals a rich golden color - giving the wine an appearance of  authority. Aromatically cleanly perfumed with citrus and white flowers. A spash of lemony acidity on the palate, followed by surprising weight and richness. There was a very clear cheesy-leesy floral signature here that reminded me of ripe Taleggio cheese, and it was fascinating. Even though the Gavi seemed nicely plump  in the mid-palate - it was managed well with great snap of crispness on entry and finish that made it refreshing and stylish. It wasn’t afraid of air-time and room-temperature either - the final glass showed softer - with integration, length and some secondary minerality coming through. This one could actually age a year or two in the cellar and show new dimensions. Drink this while you are cooking, or with seafood and light pasta.

As I am tasting my way through all the crazy white wines of Italy (there are so many wild varietals) - this wine stands out as being a serious, well-made and versatile white under $20. And while some folks might called it a “quaffer”, I’d rather call it “accessible” -  but it packs on an extra couple of layers of interst that rewards those who look deeper. Somewhere between old-world Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, a solid Cortese like this deserves a place in most geeks’ cellars.

~$30US, 100% Aglianico del Vulture, Basilacata, Italy

This wine was a revelation in 2 ways - 1. There is no substitute for age, and 2. “Bad” vintages are actually awesome sometimes.

Aglianico is probably Southern Italy’s most serious varietal, often referred to (with Gaglioppo) as the “Barolo of the South”. It has a reputation for being tannic, rustic, and inaccessible in it’s youth - and while modern techniques have helped smooth some of its edges, it can still be a little gnarly.

This 2002 is not crazy old, but it was born in a  pretty poor year - so the net effect is a wine that is drinking just right, now.  The nose gave layers of roses, cocoa, and blackberries.  The palate was where the maturity really shined -  seamless and nicely integrated - It just flowed across the palate adding liquorice, leather and a mouthwatering meatiness. Acidic lift and a long, spiced finish close the deal. This is outstanding wine - probably the most enjoyable red yet this year. No doubt, I will continue to track down and lay down Aglianico - from “good” and “bad” vintages.

~$12US, Negroamaro, Copertino, Puglia, Italy

9 years old and just getting started - this is pretty serious juice for under $15.  Popped, poured, and got trampled by goat-funk. 2-3 hours later, it was nosing and drinking beautifully - with 2 parts red cherries, 1 part blackberries, and a dash of tamari soy and a whiff of the barn. Savory and sinewy, but with a bright balance and good length. Tasted again, on day 3 and it continued to evolve with weaker fruit, but meatier texture. Definitely for those inclined to snack on beef jerky instead of candybars. A fantastic value at least on par in terms of quality with anything from artisinal French and Spanish producers at this price-point. Give it another 3-5 years…

~$12US, 100% Nero D’Avola, Sicilia, Italy

This Sicilian producer’s whole line is represented at a local retailer, and I’ve only heard great things about the quality. I can’t remember the last Nero I’ve had, but it’s been a good 5 years and I’m always on the lookout for good weeknight wines to pair with pasta. This Nero seemed to fit the bill.

I popped and poured this garnet wine, and let it get a few minute of air in the glass. On the nose, ripe red strawberry fruit was clean and clear, along with a touch of tomato skin and thatchy-patchy bramble aromas - probably the midpoint between opulence and restraint in terms of intensity. The palate was nicely polished, round and balanced - tannins, acidity and fruit all noticeable but well integrated. Medium-full bodied. The finish was surprisingly elegant with a nice vein of minerality. No sappy-sweet oak, thankfully.

Towards the end of the last glass, it clicked in my brain—this wine was drinking like a quality, broad-shouldered California Pinot Noir with some old-world flair. And it loved red sauce. In that context, this is a steal and an would make a very stong winelist buy.

~$18US, 100% Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy

I’ve become really excited about the Barbera grape and one of its biggest proponents - Piedmont producer Vietti. Listen to the great Grape Radio interview to hear Luca Currado’s dedication to the grape and his passion for his family’s choice to plant it in Grand Cru Nebbiolo territory.

The Tre Vigne from Asti is a beautiful Barbera. There is a subtle elegance to the wine across the nose, palate and finish that gives it a feminine, alluring quality. A touch of oak barrique spice, a pair of bing cherries, and some violets in fresh soil. The palate was super zingy and bright- the acidity here is ON and meant to be married with food - and I loved it. So fresh and vital on the palate, and the tannins were fine and well integrated. Medium-bodied, with a gravelly Sweet-Tart finish. A perfect pasta wine. After this wine, I’d be very comfortable shelling out the bucks for this and any of the higher-end Barberas and Barolos from Vietti.

Volver Tempranillo 2005, La Mancha, Spain $US14: Monolithic cherry fruits. High-alcohol, overtly oaky and syrupy. Acidity came into focus on day 3, but with the lumber and alcohol, it couldn’t quite pull itself together. Not undelicous, but food unfriendly. Personally - I’d reach for the amazing Prima (offering more complexity and character) over the Volver any day.

Sella Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Reserva 2005 $US9: Who turned on the Funk Machine? Barnyard leaping from the class, with mineral oil and red cherries. Violets and dried herbs with air time. Transparent, Pinot-like color. Round palate with medium-weight - excellent acid freshness and balance. If you run with the funkand have some red-sauce and/or game, this is your wine.

~14US, 100% Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy

Moscato d’Asti gets maligned as a syrupy-sweet bubbly brunch wine. I can’t say that I drink much of it - but this example bucks the trend and reveals a more serious (and seriously delicious) wine.

It poured clear and bubbly - like Crystal Pepsi - but the nose was filled with light floral and peach aromas. A little Mister Bubble soapiness popped up too. Light, sparkling, and effervescent on the palace, with a decent amount of sweetness -  but nothing out of whack in terms of acidic balance.

Short finish but overall a clean, pretty wine that would serve well as an aperitif, or lighter digestif. It may even pair well with some hard cheeses. It’s not going to change the world, but it will change some folks’ impression of Moscato d’Asti.

~$20US, 100% Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont,  Italy

Vibrant ruby color, with some transparency. Lively aromas after about an hour of breathing - yielding black cherry, roses, violets and some wet-stone aromatics. Fairly tannic and upright on the palate, bright and fresh but astringent towards the end. More black cherries and black tea, with a strange latex-balloon component that seemed to come out over time. Medium bodied - (the fruit probaby comes from younger vines and saw very little oak) but a handsome food partner with heftier pastas, veal, or pork.

When this wine was on, it was on - long and effortless. But on day 2, it started to pull apart a bit - the fruit softening a little while the tannins remained firm and separate. A baby Barolo. Drink this wine on the younger side, and with food, and it will bring serious enjoyment.

2 very interesting wines in the sub-$12 range. Both sort of one-trick-ponies, but the tricks were distinctive and cool. The Zantho was light bodied but almost overwhelmingly lemony and piney - aromatically and on the palate. Very purfumed. Mineral / stoniness comes across as a supporting role from nose to finish. Pine Sol exactly. Bone dry. Fresh, bright acidity means this would pair great with shellfish and seafood. Interestingly, I left this in the decanter overnight to taste in the morning - and it tasted even better?! The acidity integrated and the wine overall was a little plumper and softer. I’d love to see what a dry Muscat tastes like after 15 years in the cellar…anyone have that opportunity?

The Riondo Prosecco was all about Banana Now-and-Laters (my wife pinpointed this - thanks m) and white balsamic vinegar. Tiny bubbles filled the palate, with a very light and ethereal body. Refreshing and probably better before dinner than with the Thai and Sushi we enjoyed (which wasn’t a bad match by any means). This is quite dry, but I did detect a slight residual sugar to keep it drinkable and balance the acidity. Fun and cheap - everyone should have a bottle on hand for nights when champagne might be too opulent, and beer doesn’t suit the mood.

Hofer Gruner Veltliner, Frieberg 2005:

Very light straw color. Very aromatically complex and expressive nose; mercurial transitions through apple skin, some cherry, lime, white peach, bok choy, haricot verts, toasted bread, and gravel. Characteristic aromas of Old-world Rieslings, Chenin Blancs, and Sauv Blancs all seem to pop in and out of focus. Bone dry, with such an intense mineral-water/saline character it’s almost obnoxious. The finish is just a gravelly landslide that smooths out over a minute. Refreshing; begging for the next sip. This could stand up to hard-to-pair foods like Mexican and Japanese. For terroir-hounds like myself, this is a revelation - so much of the vineyard and the vintage is there to discover and taste. Fans of Sancerre, Poully-Fume, and  dry Rieslings owe themselfves a taste of this value monster.

Curatolo Grillo Tumoli, Sicilia 2006:

A little tighter on the nose, showing mysterious floral, citrus and peach-pit notes. Big, on the palate, but with a great linearity and focus. Clean and fresh. Acidity is very balanced - not sour but punchy enough to give structure and direction. Overall the fruit is restrained (it’s there, but not centerstage), but there is a great underlying river-rocks-and-flowers foundation that makes the wine real. Grilled shrimp or squid would love this.

Both can be found under $14US with little hunting . To my tastes, the Hofer had the edge (mainly in aromatics and overall complexity), but I feel more people might enjoy the Grillo as a patio-pounder-eay-drinking-weeknight-white.