Domaine de l’Hortus, Bergerie Classique Rouge 2005:

~$15US, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Pic-St. Loup Languedoc, France

Raspberries and V8 Juice. A round and accessible wine, with a nice viscosity and fleshiness. Plush tannnins. Some subtle wild herbs and spices lead to a minerally finish. A Medium-full bodied wine drinking well right now - I’d pair it with a tomato-beef stew. A distinctive terroir-driven twist on a classic Rhone blend. As with the rest of Orliac’s wines, a strong buy.

Mas de Gourgonnier: Baux de Provence 2006
~$15US, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvedre, Baux de Provence, France

Rustic and deep - with very clearly articulated violets and lavender on the nose. Mixed berries and lively acidity. A little leather and hay. The tannins here are stiff but ripe and showed much more integration on the second day. Reminescent of a very good Cotes-du-Rhone Village. This has another 3-5 years in bottle to flourish and would do well with a rib-steak or anything that you’d sprinkle (duh) Herbs-de-Provence onto. This is some serious juice under $20 - although I think the Bergerie’s palate was a touch more distinctive and graceful on my palate.

Jean-Philippe Charpentier, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Peyriac Rouge, 2003: A clean, lean and elegant wine from around the Minervois region. I’ve no idea what the cepage is, but I believe there to be a good portion of Carignan and maybe some Mourvedre and Grenache. Strawberries, thyme and balsam zipping around of the palate. The sturdy structure integrated and smoothed out on the 2nd day - but started to fall apart after the third. Medium-full bodied and quitly confident. Crushed rocks and strawberry Pez on the finish - Priorat-like - I wouldn’t be surprised if some there was some schistey/rocky soils in the vineyard. A character-full wine for the price (>$15US) for fellow terroir-heads.

Bernard Baudry, Chinon ‘Franc de Pied’, 2002: This bottle jumped out to me on the wine-list of local wine-bar-restaurant Chalk - at a good price on a bottle I’ve rarely seen at retail. Popped and poured.

Baryard funkdified, murky and massively old-skool. I loved it, but my wife was less convinced, especially by the nose. Classic Cabernet Franc flavors like bell pepper, V8 juice, and cherries. Some curious curry and saddle-leather in the mix. Chewy and round palate - this wine is beautifully open right now and probably wil be for a year or 2. Medium-bodied and a good mate to the duck and burger we had. Unfortunately, this vineyard succumbed to phylloxera a few years ago  - 2006 being the final vintage.

Domaine Oratoire St Martin, Côtes du Rhône, 2005: Probably the most accessible and easiest to love of the 3 wines - this Grenache-based red was singing with a buckets of strawberries and blueberries, pepper-spice, and minerality. Some Quince and plum. Great aromatics - I could smell the fruits across the room. Killer body and palate -  a spicy attack, generous and round-mouthfilling middle, and a welcome acidic lift on the backend. Smacking gravelly finish. Food friendly and still on the upswing in terms of longevity - This will be a repeat performer at our place, no doubt.

~$15US, 100% Carignan, Vin de Pays des cotes de Thongue, Languedoc, France

The Carignan grape has been quietly awakening in old parcels of land surrounding the Mediterrean for the past decade. The grape was an easy bet in creating the ‘jug-wines’ of 19th and early 20th century - due to the vine’s high production and vigor. Since then, many very old plots have been grafted over to the more ‘marketable’ varieties like Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah.

Luckily, a good amnount remains, and vignerons are focusing on taking advantage of these old, ‘wise’ vines. In Priorat, Carignan’s importance has been recognised as a key component (sometimes sole varietal)  in world-class wines, so long as yields are controlled and the wine is carefully vinified. Similar old plantings exist throughout Southern France, where the same care is being used to restore the vineyards- and wine-making techniques like carbonic maceration and whole-cluster fermentation can improve Carignan’s expressiveness and strength.

All that being said, the 100% Varietal Font de L’Olivier is a solid artisanal French wine for $15. Milk-chocolate covered-cherries give way to a very straight, honestly-structured wine. It begins and ends stronger than the midpalate, but there is enough going on to keep things interesting…like good acidity and big tannins, some secondary herby and licorice flavors. Very dry, even after lots of breathing-time, but moutherwatering finish. The stucture here make this a natural food partner, and I’d go with a fattier meat, like duck or sausages.  Old-word styling - It’s probably not going to convert any hardcore-Shiraz drinkers,  but I’d recommend it to them anyway just to try something out of-the-box/critter-kennel.

~$28US Carignan 60%, Mourvèdre 25%, Syrah 15%, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

Deep purple. A some clear barnyard poopieness on first opening. Aromatic - after the funk blew off, serious cherry and blackberries. Medium-bodied on the palate, lean, and biased towards acidity. Cherries and red fruits coming through on the palate, a strange mix of fresh acidity and damp, earthy straw. Transitions from a round, chewey entry to a sharper, bright midpalate. Long finish that starts sweet, almost confectionery - but a note of orange-pip-bitteress detracts. The carignan seems to characterize this as a more classic wine, with old-world stoicism - the mourvedre and syrah adding the fruity dimensions. Actually opening up quite nicely for a 5-year old Languedoc-Roussillon - I could see this staying fresh for another 3-4 years.

Overall, very easy to drink and not terribly complex, as long as you are okay with a little old-skool funk. It reminds me of a big, earthy Barbera d’alba, or a simple village Burgundy on steroids. Food required for total enjoyment. It worked with braised short ribs, but would work even better with an rustic wild mushroom risotto or braised pork belly. Well made and distinctive, but I can’t decide if this is rebuy - even at the price I paid (well below the $28 retail), as there are so many Barberas, Pinots, and Rhone-blends out there…

Edit - On day 2 I retasted and I realized that the Siete 7 Navarra I had, at half the price, had just as much to offer…

~$18US Grenache and Carignan blend, Roussillon, France

Pop and pour. Ridiculously aromatic. Fresh thyme, rosemary, fresh berries, vetivert, cedar, tar. I’ve never been to Roussillon, but I hope this is what a jog through the hills smells like. Very round and coating on the palate, but a fresh streak of acidity and minerality brings vigor. A balance of sweet and savory, rustic but not clumsy, exotic flavors and aromas (sandalwood? lavender? glove leather?) intertwined with red fruits. Perfectly integrated - the kind of wine that is difficult to pick apart because it is just working. This would be wondrous with roasted pork with fruit or rabbit stew. Utterly compelling juice and a super value to boot. And to think that this is their ‘entry-level’ wine…

~$9US Grenache / Syrah / Carignan / Cinsault, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

I’m loving these Languedoc-Rousillon value wines…they are not the most complex wines in the world, they might not flourish and evolve after decades of cellaring, but they do have great character, uniqueness, and charm. The “Les Ruffes” was very gamey and barnyardy at first, but the funk blew off to reveal dark berries and a very clear and distinct white pepperiness. It retained a wild-meatiness with raspberries that worked well with a hard goat cheese. Medium-bodied and easy-drinking. It actually had some structure too, with some tannins, a mild brace of acidity, and a medium candied finish.

We killed the bottle in record time. Compared to the “critter” wines in this price range, this is a no-brainer for an everyday value, offering a real sense of place and a peek at what the bigger (read: expensive) Rhone-varietals can offer.