Merkelbach, ‘Erdener Treppchen’ Riesling Auslese, 2006er

jseeds | July 15, 2008

~$22US, 100% Riesling, Erdener Treppchen Vineyard, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

I don’t know why, but I’ve been a little afraid of the ‘A’ word when it comes to German Rieslings. ‘A’ as in Auslese or Selected Harvest - typically meaning selected ripe berries. The lightbulb went off in my head after the recent fantastic Donnhoff Spatlese, where I realized that these labels (Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, etc) are quality markers, not necessarily universal sweetness indicators. No doubt, Riesling can be high in residual sugars, especially Auslesen, but there is a lot more going on than just ’sweet’.

Riesling’s core minerality and acidity affords it’s flexibility and interpretive diversity. For instance - the longer hang-times of Spatlesen or Auslesen concentrate flavors (including sugars and acidity). Of course the weather, climate, and place affect exactly how and how well this happens, but the results (in the hands of able growers) can be strikingly balanced, proportionate and concentrated wines, from dry to dessert styles. 

The Merkelbach poured a pale hay, almost clear. Honeysuckle and pears on the nose. The palate moved from ripe apples and pears to a powerful mineral-driven midpalate - like a hitting a gravel speedbump while dragging your tongue on a smooth nectary road. The lemon/lime acidity charged back with some nice lift, but lacked a little oomph to really take it all the way home. 

Another very versatile wine, easy to enjoy with aged cheeses, by itself, or with all kinds of food (richer pork and grilled chicken dishes especially). A delicious example, not one to overthink - but I’m not afraid of Auslesen anymore. 

 


Piesporter Treppchen Riesling Qualitätswein, 2006

jseeds | February 12, 2008

  (<- borrowed wrong label) ~$12US / LITER!, 100% Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Very tropical on the nose - pineapple, lime, and peaches. Spritzy with very firm acidity - moreso than the last 2 rieslings I’ve had, despite the overall impression of this as being sweeter on the palate.The signature Mosel slate-flavors seem to be subdued, but for the price, this really deliver great fruit and food-friendliness.  It paired will with Korean short-ribs.Wicked value for the liter. 


Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2005

jseeds | February 6, 2008

 (image is of Kabinett) ~$16US, 100% Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Straw. Classic Mosel nose of dusty slate and yellow fruits.  Fresh pipe peaches and stewed apricots in the mouth - just lush and delicious. Definitely sweety-fruity through he midpalate, but balanced with enough acidic lift to change directions and finish dry. The sweetness integrated great with food - as a contrast to a Cuban-roasted pork tenderloin, and a complement to the roasted butternut squash alongside it. As the wine settled at room temperature, it became a little cloying and lost a little focus in the finish. Overall a really fun weeknight wine, offering food-friendliness, balanced acidity, interesting minerality and pure fruit - all things which I find myself prizing in wine more and more. 


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