Volver Tempranillo 2005, La Mancha, Spain $US14: Monolithic cherry fruits. High-alcohol, overtly oaky and syrupy. Acidity came into focus on day 3, but with the lumber and alcohol, it couldn’t quite pull itself together. Not undelicous, but food unfriendly. Personally - I’d reach for the amazing Prima (offering more complexity and character) over the Volver any day.

Sella Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Reserva 2005 $US9: Who turned on the Funk Machine? Barnyard leaping from the class, with mineral oil and red cherries. Violets and dried herbs with air time. Transparent, Pinot-like color. Round palate with medium-weight - excellent acid freshness and balance. If you run with the funkand have some red-sauce and/or game, this is your wine.

~$15US, 95% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, Toro, Spain

I’ve been haunted by the Flor de Pingus I had a few months ago with it’s rich fruit and earthy, primordial robustness. I can’t imagine what the actual Pingus is like - but in any case, I’ve been looking for another Tempranillo that can deliver even a bit of that flavor profile at an everyday price. The Prima does a great job of hitting a few of key flavor buttons in the under $20US range.

Super-dark inky purple. Beautiful nose of plums and blackberries, with an wonderful tobacco and leather underlaying. The oak is poking out a little, but does not intrude - it ads a slight vanilla edge. Volumnous and big on the palate, with blackberries and maduro tobacco. A touch of heat from the 14.5%ABV. Firm tannins. Concentrated and tight still - it needed some time to unwind.

Day 2: A luxurious evolution to a much more velvety and integrated wine. This is not going to win awards for elegance, but there is good scale and complexity, with 2nd and 3rd tier flavors (some espresso, violet and lavender aspects). The oak still there, still not overpowering the fruit, but there. 4-6 more years would probably make this wine rock even more.

This is a genuine and accessible wine - highly recommended and easy to love.

In my…commitment…to understand the scope and reach of Bordeaux’s varietals in their blended forms, I had a packed week/weekend featuring three of the five (Cab Franc, Sauv. and Merlot), blended with a few additional curveballs.  The lay of the land is quite interesting. I put the Nolados and the Cambra at the top, the Geol and Picque Caillou on the bottom.

I hope to try North and South American efforts plus an Italian to complete the circle.

Dominio Buenavista, Veleta ‘Nolados’ 2005

~$14US, 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Tempranillo, Vino de la Tierra Contraviesa Alpujarra, Granada, Spain

Deep ruby-purple. Heady aromas of plum, cassis, supported by red cherries and a subtle earthiness and minerality beyond. On day 1, the fruit was had big presence front and center, but it was not overpowered by the acidic lift and fine, but tight tannins. Deftly integrated oak - some spices and caramel, but again, balanced and harmonious. On day 3, the wine was generously evolved, smooth as silk with secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas…leather, tobacco, and a dusty, gravelly road. Tons of old world character lurking behind ripe-new-worldly fruits. And sweet tannins moving towards a clean finish.

I would have probably overlooked this wine, had it not been for a lucky tasting with the head of the estate, Dr. Juan Palomar and wife, locally last year. Their efforts are truly a great success -  This wine is a home run and an astounding value.

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Rafael Cambra ‘Dos’

~$20US, 50% Cabernet Savignon, 50% Cabernet Franc, Valencia, Spain

While his Monestrall-based ‘Uno’ was less impressive to me, the ‘Dos’ delivered the goods. Deep dark violet color. The shy nose that opening up over the course of 5-6 hours - showing cherries and red currant, with a floral overtone. A little wet straw, bay leaf, green pepper and orange-zest too. The palate was full and vibrant, with a great acidity and structure - which softened to become almost lush, aside from some alcoholic bite on the backend. There’s a zesty Priorat-like schiste flavor on the finish. Sturdy.

This is a very precise and focused wine, with a understated elegance and an exotic streak. Bordeaux meets Priorat. Only a smidge less ABV would’ve made this classic. Maybe the 2004 or 2006  are a little less hot - I hope to try.

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Thomas Cusine ‘GEOL’ 2005

~$21US, 65% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Carinena, Costers del Segre, Spain

A Monsterous blast of fruit from popping the cork to pouring…This is a ripping, ripe, large-scaled wine, and not your father’s Merlot. Lots of stewed fruit, plums, blackberries, and cherries. Some disintegration with a sweet syrupy oakiness, which turn me off a little. Very concentrated. The tannins seem medium, but the alcohol definitely seems hotter that the 14.5% ABV on label. But beneath lies an energy gives the wine momentum and keep it from flabbing out. This is a full-throttle primary fruit monster right now…It may become more complex and settle down, but there is plenty to enjoy if you’re in the mood now.

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Château Picque Caillou 2005

~$20US, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux France

Beguiling aromas of Cherry cordials, tobacco, Spanish cedar, and sandalwood. Interesting and full of character - but a little thin through the palate. Clean minerality in the finish. Firm tannins and forward acidity probaby portent a good chance of fattening up in bottle over the next 3-5 years. Wait on this one - while the nose is cool - the palate is dissappointing right now.

~$11USA, 85% Verdejo, 10% Viura, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda, Spain

I’ve loved Basa since the ‘03 vintage, and believe this to be the best expression yet. Vibrant ruby grapefruit, white peaches with slightly under-ripe cherries, along with a mineral streak that you’d expect from a German Riesling. A shockingly good effort that has the guts to impress wine-geeks, and the accessibility to slug and laugh with friends and summertime food.  No brainer white wine, if you see it, buy it.

~$50US, 100% Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain

This is the 2nd wine of the cult-garagiste-super-hyped Dominio de Pingus, in Ribera del Duero. Peter Sisseck brings a Bordelais heritage and strict selection with obnoxiously low yields to the Tempranillo grape. I just saw the 05’s come out, so I was temped to try this bottle. I popped and decanted about an hour before tasting.

It just smelled big - an overscaled bowl of cherries and strawberries like a massively rich California Pinot Noir. There was something primal about the nose - not earthy, but of-the-earth. Given the power of the aroma, I was expecting the palate to be jammy-jam extracted, but it shocked me with a very acidic and bright punch to the mouth. Young and vibrant. It didn’t give much in the midpalate and the tannins were grip-tight, but the finish just wouldn’t quit. One of the most lingering wines I’ve had in awhile, ripe with red cherries and dusty leather.

This is obviously a wine built for the long haul - 5 hours in the decanter, and still tight. A new-world nose, with an old world palate - fascinating, but just not in a pleasurable place right now. Like getting a masterful massage when you have a really bad sunburn - sometimes it’s best to wait a little longer.

Update: I left about 1 glass worth in a half-bottle overnight. Softer overall and more even-keeled. Chewey (almost chunky - depositing strange residue specs on the glass) with leather dominating along with coffee flavors. Acidity still coming through most prominently. Not quite there…but much more interesting than day 1.

~$20US, 100% Mencia, Bierzo, Spain

Deep purple and magenta. Almost thick in it’s aromatics with robust plum, blueberry, black cherry, earthy wet leaves, leather and dried herbs - oregano. Lots of complexity on the nose; echoed on the palate. Medium weight and mercurial - lots of fruit, herbal, and earthy interplay. Anise one moment, curry another, dry smokiness then peppery spice. Perfect fruit ripeness, good acidic lift = richness with vibrancy.

This is real, interesting wine - and so far, the best value wearing the Palacios name that I’ve tasted.

With wines like this in the $20 range, Bierzo a region to watch.

~US$13, 100% Monastrell (Mourvedre), Jumilla, Spain

Fruit forward, with red cherries, strawberries and black raspberries on the nose and palate. Clear oak influence. While soft and juicy, the palate is supported by enough acidity and tannic stucture to hold itself together without feeling flabby. The typical Mourvedre gaminess is absent - and the interplay of big red and black fruits reminded me of a oversized new-world Pinot Noir more than anything else. Some spice notes of cinnamon and allspice towards the finish.

Overall, not a serious geek-out wine, but a tasty value that satisfied. It showed well the 2nd day, but I wouldn’t keep the 05’s around much past 2010. Great with BBQ.

~US$30, Grenache/Carignan/Cabernet Sauvignon, Priorat Spain

I love Priorat wines for stories and soul that goes into the wines as much as the actual liquid. From accounts and photos of the area, it’s a beautiful and dangerous other-worldly terrain that would seem unlikely to be producing much in the way of agriculture/viticulture. But in the past 20 years,a small group of producers (led by Alvaro Palacios, Daphne Glorian, and Rene Barbier) have proven that through insanely hard work - world-class wines from indigenous varieties can be coaxed from the schisty, terraced cliffs.

Les Terrasses is Palacios’ entry-level Priorat cuvee, comprised of Grenache and Carignan with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. Pop and poured - zingy acidity, red fruits, but tight and astringent - so I put it away for 2 days to see how it developed. Retasted and it put on wonderful complexity and weight. Bing cherry flavors melded with a deep, herbal spiciness - primarily lavender and thyme. Immediately comparable in flavors to a Chataueneuf-du-Pape, just lighter in body. The Cabernet brings some nice cedar and currant to the midpalate with an clean tannic lift. Signature Priorat wet-slate finish, which could be lengthier. Even after 2 days open it still had very dry tannins which mark this for pairings with fattier foods - it could make your gums a little too sticky on its own. There is clearly enough fruit here to carry this wine for another day or 2 in an open bottle, or probably till 2018+ in cellar.

Personally, this is a great value @ $30 - because it affords the ability to be played with over a week - and it’s just delicious and not mind-blowingly alcoholic or too fruity or oakey. This is a finessed wine that probably wont be revelatory to the wine-drinker buying Spanish wines in the $10-15 range - but for those who drink the pricier Rhones, Shiraz, and even certain Bordeaux, this wine will have you wondering why you’d want to spend 2x or 3x this price.

100% Mencia, Bierzo Spain

Captivating aromas; leather mixed herbal qualities (basil/anise) and plums. At this point - it’s about 50/50 fruit/non-fruit on the nose, which is right up my alley…It was unique - but had some Rioja and Chianti-Classico characteristics if I had to pick points of departure.

On the palate - this wine is beautifully medium-bodied and forms a totally clean and resolved structure. Formal, elegant and finessed. Complex and slightly firm - this wine is still young and has another 2-4 years of upside potential. Refreshing, with everything fitting together with lift and energy - The finish recalls rocky soils with mineral-tinged flavors. Fantastic food wine.

Update: I left 1 glass in the bottle, vacuumed it, and come back the next day - the wine evolved a Pinot-like softness and lushness while maintaining the flavor characteristics, elegance and finish stated above.

~$12US, 100% Tempranillo, Granada Spain

Deep ruby with a purplish cast. Rich, ripe plums and blackberries on the nose…big fruit that smells of sunshine, with secondary leather and spicebox aromas emerging with time. Medium-full bodied on the palate and structurally well-constructed for this price. Just the right acidic lift to balance the fruit, taught but clean tannins (this has at least another 4-5 years of upswing), and very disciplined use of oak all add up to a wine you’d expect to be in the US$25-30 range. It’s tight but enjoyable at this point - but I detect some (nice) vegetal and spice complexities that need a little time to unwind. The finish revealed a soft decrescendo of fruit and a touch of rocky schiste-iness I usually attribute to Priorat and wines from Southwestern France. Welcome and versatile at the table - I imagine it standing up to strong sauces (garlicky/peppery) or with earthier vegetarian dishes.

A screaming value not only for what you get for $12, but what pitfalls it avoids among its price-peers (over-oaking, flabby tannins, funky brettyness, over-extraction, oxidation, etc). Easy to drink - the bottle just disappeared… I’d love to stock up on this and try it over the next few years to watch its evolution…and surprise friends when it upstages their latest California ‘cult’ wine for a fraction of the price. Seek out.