&

2 singular wines produced by 2 singular producers on different sides of the world. They actually had quite a bit in common - especially from a structural point-of-view (aside from their winemaker’s dedication to quality and uncommon passion_

Chateau Musar Blanc 1998, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon: Deep gold color. Fascinating nose of marzipan, honey and hazelnuts. Sherry-like. Dried strawberries, dates and figs with slight citrus and floral notes. Very round and mouth-coating entry - the nose really lets on that this will be sweet - but NO! It’s dry. It has a generous body, but the mouthwatering tart acidity that gives the wine focus. Lemon cake. It opened up beautifully after 6-10 hours, and showed very little disintegration after 24(!). Thought-provoking and totally versatile: from mac-n-cheese to mixed mezze to fish to pastilla to baklava. This wine transcends preconceptions like color/varietal/blend/terroir and just exists. It’s polarizing, but not to be missed.

Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir 2005, Sta. Rita Hills, California: Beautiful purple-tinged ruby; translucent, but rich. The nose is perfumed with ripe strawberries, red raspberries, and some muted but alluring star anise, sandalwood, and cinnamon. There is an unusual perception of big volume and perfect fruit ripeness immediately on the entry (almost sweet?!) - which transitions towards a very elegant and finessed midpalate and finish. Medium body with great acidity to pair with anything from a burger to simply prepared salmon. Very fine tannins. The tiny touch of minerality and discrete bitterness on the finish is characterful. A superb example of using the right wood. Attractive but not sexy, charismatic but still humble, and bright but not pedantic. The bottle was gone way before we were ready to say goodbye.

~$40US, 100% Chardonnay, Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, California

Extremely pale straw, nearly colorless. White peaches, green apples, mango, and a cold steeliness on the nose. Salty-silica maritime notes in the mix as well. Great aromatics, but the poise and elegance up front portents a very different wine than one might expect from a California chardonnay.

Razor laser focus on the palate. This is a ripping chardonnay with full-throttle acidity, serious vitality and vigor. No ‘oakiness’ evident, other than whatever it took to add some weight to the midpalate. So fresh, clean, and precise - This is extreme chardonnay. I’ve been drinking lots of Riesling and Chenin Blanc lately, and what struck me was the fruit ripeness is totally complete, but it’s so dry and acidic. No make-up, no stylization. I wouldn’t call it classically balanced, but it does have a great place at the table with firmer/fattier fish, Japanese cuisine, or cheeses.

Personally, I am a sucker for acidity, and really enjoyed the nearly palate-stripping power here. It’s fresh, true, and extreme - so you have to know what you are getting into. But if you get into the high-toned acidity of Chablis, bone-dry Rieslings and Loire whites, you’ll be surprised at what this new world Chardonnay can offer. I’d be curious to see what a few years of cellar-time would do - but unfortunately, my only bottle is gone. The price and rarity prohibit this from being a great value, but it is a unique wine and one to try at least once. Kudos Wes!

~$30US, 100% Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California

Deep ruby in color. Mabe a hair darker than what I’d call “varietally correct”. Bursting with a signature Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir nose - Ripe raspberries, dried cherries and lychees, plus a little tomato skin. Some spiced vanilla notes eluding to some time in new oak barrels. Sexy mouthfeel - velvety, easy-drinking, and well-integrated for the most part, although a little aggressive oak and alcoholic heat peak out in the midpalate. Not the last word in complexity, but scrumptious fruit with fine tannins (ready-to-drink) and enough acidity to do well at the table with medium-bodied fare (veal, pork roasts and grilled white meats).

Overall, an exemplary Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, produced by the man who pioneered the grape in said AVA. While the providence must be respected,  this is a casual wine - fun to drink and I’m certain that it would make both old Pinot fans and novices equally happy. Considering the other wines being made in the area, this stands out at it’s price point as a pretty good value - but for a tad more, you move into single-vineyard designates that may offer more individuality.

~$40US, 100% Pinot Noir, Fiddlestix vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, California

Medium transparent ruby. Big boisterous brambly nose with cherry pie filling. Soft and viscous in the front of the palate, moving towards a taught acidity and some serious spice. Not alcoholic spice - more like a black-pepper spice. Fabulous balance and length. Fruit-driven, and not terribly complex, but totally intriguing as it progressed in the palate from bold to hot. With food? = absolutely - but I wouldn’t try to pair it with anything too spicy, as it could fight.

It showed better and more integrated with softened spices on day 3. Sta. Rita Hills Pinots have really gotten me back into this grape, despite all my efforts to avoid the hype. To my mind, they show the importance of proportionality when creating wines with more forward fruit characteristics than the benchmark Burgundies.

  ~$50US, 100% Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California.

Very clean brilliant ruby color - quite light. Wild perfumed nose, with strawberries for days…Very round and big in volume on the palate, with deep spice notes, cloves and cinnamon. Excellent purity of fruit, and over time more of the 2nd and 3rd tier aromatics came through. A bit of tomato - not a green/herbal flavor but a sweeter grape/cherry tomato along with some rosemary aromatics. I could only argue for a hint more acidity and length. Food friendly - I could imagine this working well with hard-to-pair things like pork and richer fish dishes with bigger sauces. A delicious and character-full wine which shows-off the strengths of the AVA/region well.

Anyone curious as to why people get really passionate California Pinot should try this.