2 very interesting wines in the sub-$12 range. Both sort of one-trick-ponies, but the tricks were distinctive and cool. The Zantho was light bodied but almost overwhelmingly lemony and piney - aromatically and on the palate. Very purfumed. Mineral / stoniness comes across as a supporting role from nose to finish. Pine Sol exactly. Bone dry. Fresh, bright acidity means this would pair great with shellfish and seafood. Interestingly, I left this in the decanter overnight to taste in the morning - and it tasted even better?! The acidity integrated and the wine overall was a little plumper and softer. I’d love to see what a dry Muscat tastes like after 15 years in the cellar…anyone have that opportunity?

The Riondo Prosecco was all about Banana Now-and-Laters (my wife pinpointed this - thanks m) and white balsamic vinegar. Tiny bubbles filled the palate, with a very light and ethereal body. Refreshing and probably better before dinner than with the Thai and Sushi we enjoyed (which wasn’t a bad match by any means). This is quite dry, but I did detect a slight residual sugar to keep it drinkable and balance the acidity. Fun and cheap - everyone should have a bottle on hand for nights when champagne might be too opulent, and beer doesn’t suit the mood.

Hofer Gruner Veltliner, Frieberg 2005:

Very light straw color. Very aromatically complex and expressive nose; mercurial transitions through apple skin, some cherry, lime, white peach, bok choy, haricot verts, toasted bread, and gravel. Characteristic aromas of Old-world Rieslings, Chenin Blancs, and Sauv Blancs all seem to pop in and out of focus. Bone dry, with such an intense mineral-water/saline character it’s almost obnoxious. The finish is just a gravelly landslide that smooths out over a minute. Refreshing; begging for the next sip. This could stand up to hard-to-pair foods like Mexican and Japanese. For terroir-hounds like myself, this is a revelation - so much of the vineyard and the vintage is there to discover and taste. Fans of Sancerre, Poully-Fume, and  dry Rieslings owe themselfves a taste of this value monster.

Curatolo Grillo Tumoli, Sicilia 2006:

A little tighter on the nose, showing mysterious floral, citrus and peach-pit notes. Big, on the palate, but with a great linearity and focus. Clean and fresh. Acidity is very balanced - not sour but punchy enough to give structure and direction. Overall the fruit is restrained (it’s there, but not centerstage), but there is a great underlying river-rocks-and-flowers foundation that makes the wine real. Grilled shrimp or squid would love this.

Both can be found under $14US with little hunting . To my tastes, the Hofer had the edge (mainly in aromatics and overall complexity), but I feel more people might enjoy the Grillo as a patio-pounder-eay-drinking-weeknight-white.

Leitz Dragonstone Reisling 2005: I kind of panned this last year, but it’s in a better place now. Toned down is the fierce minerality in lieu of better overall flavor integration and depth along with some petrol-licous secondary flavors. The fruit is still going strong, with lime, green apple, and white peaches. Great with jerk chicken and coconut red-beans-and-rice.

Jean Lallement Champagne Brut NV: Shockingly aromatic - Pinot Noir-driven strawberries are the first aromas, followed by Granny Smith apples, sweet cream and puffed pastries. Grippy and very dry on the palate but so fresh and friendly…After a bit of time it was just like having an fresh baked apple pie right there in front of me. Fun and very distinctive in that it walked the line between elegance and rusticity - the nose was giving 110% while the palate was more restrained. Sexy. Would buy again. Aperitif or with cheese.

Clos de Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001: This is not a wine to ponder, dissect, or taste - this is a wine to drink and enjoy with someone special over serious meat. Tremendous depth and lushness, but very well balanced with fresh acidity. Tannins almost imperceptibly fine and integrated. Decanted for hours - while not needed, it helped some of the earthy and herbal tones marry into the fruit. Cherries, spices galore, red raspberries, lavender, leather, cedar…etc. I could go on and on… This is world class stuff without any noticeable flaws, misgivings or shortcomings. Seek out.

Domaine les Haute Noelles: Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu 2006: Concentrated, zingy but weighty, fresh melon and citrus all day long. Fantastic chalkiness in the finish makes you want another sip. Why is Muscadet uncool? I have no idea, but I’m taking advantage of the fantastic value here and sacking away a few more bottles for seafood and roasted chicken.

Domaine de la Colombette Lledoner Pelut Vin de Pays des Côteaux du Libron, 2003: My new favorite grape is the Lledoner Pelut - Grenache’s “hairy-leafed” cousin. Too bad there are like 2 wines in the world that use it as a primary component. This is one of them. Garnet with brilliant translucency. Noses like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but has palate characteristics of a mid-weight Burgundy. Cherries, spice, leather and licorice. Round and mouth-coating, but light and fresh with balance and poise. Savory. This wine is killing right now, and probably will for another 2-3 years as the tannins continue to integrate. Lovely.

Château Charmail, Haut Médoc, Bordeaux France 2003: Deeply aromatic and classically Medoc - big black currant and leather. A sweet palate - new oak influence is clearly evident, but I didn’t mind it because it was still balanced by the ripe fruits. Good acidity despite the vintage and drinking very well right out of the gates. Not great, but a good value bordeaux under $30 that would be perfect with a rib steak.

Francois Chidaine Vouvray le Bouchet 2005: An excellent Vouvray - I’ve been drinking a lot of Riesling lately, and have forgotten how much I enjoy Chenin Blanc. Wonderful green vegetables and Pink Lady apples on the nose. English peas and white asparagus soaked in really fresh apple cider. Long, juciy, mercurial,  and wonderfully balanced - the sweetness of an apple with enough acidity to tame the sugar. Again with Chidaine’s wines, I have no idea how to classify the sweetness - I wouldn’t call this sweet, but I would certainly call it an excellent wine.

~ $10US, 100% Primitivo, Salento Italy Deep purple/red. Old-world vs. New World nose. Great tension between floral, meaty, and straw aromas and stewed berries and jam.  Juicy and full-bodied in the mouth, with mild tannins and a touch of acidic lift. Another great value from this producer - not as refined and complex as the Passamante, but a little easier to chill out with. This would be great with a simple grilled steak w/ rosemary or prosciutto dishes.  Probably not one for the cellar, but who knows… 

the thunder ?

Pepiere Muscadet Clos Des Briords 2006, Loire: Fierce acidity, grapefruit, lime, and chalk dust. Very mineral and acid driven. Razor sharp and focused. Mouthfulls of gravel. Very long and persistent for a wine under ~$12. Drink with food you’d normally squeeze a lemon on.

Galena Priorat 2004, Priorat: Quite austere, but intriguing black tea, wet leaves, and high-toned fruit. Firm and acidic - leaning towards an elegance rather than an opulence. Restrained fruit, but really nice 2nd and 3rd tier herbal (oregano) characteristics. Good value @ $24, and an interesting blend of Garnacha, Cabernet, Merlot & Carignan. Try with pork dishes.

Kiona Cabernet-Merlot 2001, Washington: Old-world aromas - sweaty sock and barnyard - are welcome and characteristic of this unusual $11 wine. Caramelized broccoli and asparagus on the nose, with a black fruit core. Very juicy and lush on the palate - easy to drink indeed - the fruit has held up nicely and retains a fresh ripeness. The only thing holding this little wine from greatness is an annoying bitterness in the finish. This has gobs of character and charm, and is a great value. With ostrich or buffalo burgers - or asparagus wrapped in pancetta.

Tolaini Duesanti Toscana IGT 2003: A shocking combination of old-world Italian viticulture with Bordeaux grapes. This gem really delivers with a distinctive nose of black currant, dried parsley and mint, and a forest-floor woodsiness (not oaky). Great focus and purity on the palate - still tight with firm tannins but very expressive fruit ripeness and length. Much more interesting than the Paulliac tasted alongside it in the sub-$40 range. Try with braised veal shank and fresh pasta.

M5 Monastrell, 2005 Yecla: Undrinkable. Syrupy over-extracted and hot. Cheap raspberry-balsamic vinegar poured over a wet animal. Yuck. 92 pts Jay Miller?!?.