Domaine les Haute Noelles: Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu 2006: Concentrated, zingy but weighty, fresh melon and citrus all day long. Fantastic chalkiness in the finish makes you want another sip. Why is Muscadet uncool? I have no idea, but I’m taking advantage of the fantastic value here and sacking away a few more bottles for seafood and roasted chicken.

Domaine de la Colombette Lledoner Pelut Vin de Pays des Côteaux du Libron, 2003: My new favorite grape is the Lledoner Pelut - Grenache’s “hairy-leafed” cousin. Too bad there are like 2 wines in the world that use it as a primary component. This is one of them. Garnet with brilliant translucency. Noses like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but has palate characteristics of a mid-weight Burgundy. Cherries, spice, leather and licorice. Round and mouth-coating, but light and fresh with balance and poise. Savory. This wine is killing right now, and probably will for another 2-3 years as the tannins continue to integrate. Lovely.

Château Charmail, Haut Médoc, Bordeaux France 2003: Deeply aromatic and classically Medoc - big black currant and leather. A sweet palate - new oak influence is clearly evident, but I didn’t mind it because it was still balanced by the ripe fruits. Good acidity despite the vintage and drinking very well right out of the gates. Not great, but a good value bordeaux under $30 that would be perfect with a rib steak.

Francois Chidaine Vouvray le Bouchet 2005: An excellent Vouvray - I’ve been drinking a lot of Riesling lately, and have forgotten how much I enjoy Chenin Blanc. Wonderful green vegetables and Pink Lady apples on the nose. English peas and white asparagus soaked in really fresh apple cider. Long, juciy, mercurial,  and wonderfully balanced - the sweetness of an apple with enough acidity to tame the sugar. Again with Chidaine’s wines, I have no idea how to classify the sweetness - I wouldn’t call this sweet, but I would certainly call it an excellent wine.

~ $10US, 100% Primitivo, Salento Italy Deep purple/red. Old-world vs. New World nose. Great tension between floral, meaty, and straw aromas and stewed berries and jam.  Juicy and full-bodied in the mouth, with mild tannins and a touch of acidic lift. Another great value from this producer - not as refined and complex as the Passamante, but a little easier to chill out with. This would be great with a simple grilled steak w/ rosemary or prosciutto dishes.  Probably not one for the cellar, but who knows… 

the thunder ?

Pepiere Muscadet Clos Des Briords 2006, Loire: Fierce acidity, grapefruit, lime, and chalk dust. Very mineral and acid driven. Razor sharp and focused. Mouthfulls of gravel. Very long and persistent for a wine under ~$12. Drink with food you’d normally squeeze a lemon on.

Galena Priorat 2004, Priorat: Quite austere, but intriguing black tea, wet leaves, and high-toned fruit. Firm and acidic - leaning towards an elegance rather than an opulence. Restrained fruit, but really nice 2nd and 3rd tier herbal (oregano) characteristics. Good value @ $24, and an interesting blend of Garnacha, Cabernet, Merlot & Carignan. Try with pork dishes.

Kiona Cabernet-Merlot 2001, Washington: Old-world aromas - sweaty sock and barnyard - are welcome and characteristic of this unusual $11 wine. Caramelized broccoli and asparagus on the nose, with a black fruit core. Very juicy and lush on the palate - easy to drink indeed - the fruit has held up nicely and retains a fresh ripeness. The only thing holding this little wine from greatness is an annoying bitterness in the finish. This has gobs of character and charm, and is a great value. With ostrich or buffalo burgers - or asparagus wrapped in pancetta.

Tolaini Duesanti Toscana IGT 2003: A shocking combination of old-world Italian viticulture with Bordeaux grapes. This gem really delivers with a distinctive nose of black currant, dried parsley and mint, and a forest-floor woodsiness (not oaky). Great focus and purity on the palate - still tight with firm tannins but very expressive fruit ripeness and length. Much more interesting than the Paulliac tasted alongside it in the sub-$40 range. Try with braised veal shank and fresh pasta.

M5 Monastrell, 2005 Yecla: Undrinkable. Syrupy over-extracted and hot. Cheap raspberry-balsamic vinegar poured over a wet animal. Yuck. 92 pts Jay Miller?!?.

~$25US, 51% Mourvedre, 33% Syrah,16% Grenache, Calaveras County

Purple. Juicy, fruity, integrated, with some smoke. Bacon-wrapped plums. Smooth, dense,  and chewey on the palate. Easy to drink due to the quality of the fruit and structure. Coffee and some cocoa through the midpalate. While not the least bit acidic, the tannins and spice give it lift and vibrancy.

Absolutely a new world fruit-driven wine, but done well. Long finish with glycerin, licorice, and mineral-water flavors. A little heavy-handed on the new oak - not obliterating the fruit, but keeping this from becoming a truly outstanding effort.

In any case, I appload the producers in creating something unique- a Calaveras-county(?!)-mourvedre-based-Rhone-style-blend with complexity and style. *%#&@! yeah!

2006 Lucien Crochet Sancerre “Croix du Roy” - Grassy, fresh grapefruit, gravel-driven finish. Very nice w/ goat cheese.

2006 Cavia Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza - Rich, full-bodied, easy-drinking. Well-made, softly oaked with some spice.

2005 Chateau de Villeneuve Saumur Blanc - Chenin Blanc. Light and clean w/ green apple and lively acidity.

2005 Petit Chapeau Cotes du Rhone - Opened up considerably with time - classic spicy syrah, with raspberries and blackberries. Simple, elegant, and medium-bodied.

2005 Aiguilhe Querre, Cotes de Castillon - Tough, closed and chalky. Celery and green pepper atop red some fruits. Backwards even after decanding, and overall disappointing.

2006 Ferraud Morgon, Les Charmes - Thin and light, with fruity banana, cherry and unique floral notes. Very awkward in the mouth with strong tannins and acidity. Disjointed in it’s youth and clearly not a crowd pleaser.

2003 Clos du Prieur, Languedoc - Brooding, smoky, and long, with extracted berry fruits and herbs-de-provence. The roundest and fullest (and oldest) in the bunch. Most peoples Wine-of-the-Night.

We tasted a bunch wines this holiday season, some great, others dissappointing:

Green Lion Merlot 2005: A merlot for cabernet lovers. Good red fruits. Too young -Give this a few years.

Coviv Anglianico del Vulture 2004: Awesome nose: Leather, Cherries, Earth. A little disjointed on the palate.

Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc Champagne NV: Lush yet fresh. Dazzling. A benchmark champagne under $40.

Nun Vinya del Taus, Penedes 2004: Petrolly and acidic. Not so good. Just not appetizing. Disappointment of the night.

Lucien Albrecht 2005 Gewürztraminer: Tropical and fragrant but cloying and syrupy. 1/2 glass is enough.

Zardini Valpolicella Reserva Superior 2005: Solid. Balance of red fruits and green vegetables. Sweet-n-sour.

Saint Jean Du Barroux 2003: Aged Rum? Oak, vanilla, molasses, and leather. Very little fruit. weird.

Selvapiana Bucerchiale Chianti Classico Riserva 2003:Superb balance and structure. Penetrating sour cherries. Wow. Age-worthy.

Fess Parker Ashley’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2004: A personal favorite. Sunshiney fruits, apples, pears. Weighty, smartly oaked.

Mt. Difficulty Central Otago Pinot Noir 2003: Tar and cherries. Deep body, sweet finish - needed time to open.

Dry Creek Dry Chenin Blanc 2006: Lush pears and pineapples with zesty acidity.Fresh. The wine for Indian.