~$30US, 100% Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia

Considered by some of be one of Australia’s greatest dry Riesling, this was a treat to unscrew and enjoy. Pale green-straw in color with a nose that continued to evolved over 2-3 hours. Initially very compact with a lanolin and chalk slurry nose with some lime and green apples  - it started to develop into a very “round” nose of fresh apricots and watermelon with an integrated oiliness. It reminded me of the old-school watermelon and sour-apple  ‘Now and Laters’ - the long ones that you could lick and sharpen to a point. Except you just dropped it into the playground pea-gravel that had some a little oil spill on it, and you ate it anyways.  I just couldn’t stop smelling this wine when it got about 3 hours of air - tightly woven layers of aromas that kept going in unexpected directions.

The palate was quite fierce in its acidity and focus. At first, it was just blasting my palate with the acid attack and discombobulated in the midpalate - but as it opened it really filled out nicely and showed a lively transition from the attack through the finish. There is so much minerality here it’s obnoxious…It clearly possesses a different character of mineralty than Mosel or Nahe wines - a somehow ‘rawer’ smashed gravel and less flinty-slatey.

This is a great wine showing a “New World” Riesling that shows impeccable wine-making, a minerality that would please even the the gnarliest spelunkers / rock-heads , and most of all  - a vigor that didn’t stop. It woke up slowly, but was positively dancing as that last drop was sipped.

100% Chenin Blanc, Savienneres, Loire Valley, France

My first wine from banker-turned-biodynamic-zealot Nicholas Joly. This wine was offered as a great price from local wine-bar that seems to be doing things really right, Chalk. The also had the big brother, one of my ‘grail’  wines, the Coulée de Serrant - which is known for improving over the span of a week in the decanter.

The ‘03 Clos Sacres was born on a warmer year in the Loire, which typically means more exhuberance and ripe character than the classical ‘02 and ‘04. The color was a striking gold portenting richness and maybe some (good in my book) oxidation. On the nose, honey and flowers all over the place - chamomile, acacia, orange blossom - held together with a lemony core.

The palate, seductive and tricky - the nose pointed towards a more unctuous, sweet style, but the palate clearly maintained a central nerve of acidity and lift. Medium weight but altogether fresh, with some almond  nuttiness and some tropicalia coming through on the midpalate.  Finished long and dry, as Savennieres typically do. Beautiful pairing with sweetbreads or heartier fish dishes.

This is a living, evolving wine, which demands attention. I was crazy about it- and most of my friends enjoyed it and had to take a pause to think about how unusual it was.  Superb.  I hope I have the opportunity to try its big brother soon…

~$18US, 100% Cortese, Gavi di Gavi

Gavi is one of the Piemontese wines you don’t hear a lot about…but it’s a wine that is working hard to outgrow the notion of  being a “quaffer”.  While I believe a lot more Gavi gets consumed than people are talking  about -  this wine from the massive hands of Stefano Moccagatta bears mentioning as a serious example of what the region has to offer.

First of all, the bottle shape and label are beautifully quirky and minimal - like some sort of modern potion. The clear bottle reveals a rich golden color - giving the wine an appearance of  authority. Aromatically cleanly perfumed with citrus and white flowers. A spash of lemony acidity on the palate, followed by surprising weight and richness. There was a very clear cheesy-leesy floral signature here that reminded me of ripe Taleggio cheese, and it was fascinating. Even though the Gavi seemed nicely plump  in the mid-palate - it was managed well with great snap of crispness on entry and finish that made it refreshing and stylish. It wasn’t afraid of air-time and room-temperature either - the final glass showed softer - with integration, length and some secondary minerality coming through. This one could actually age a year or two in the cellar and show new dimensions. Drink this while you are cooking, or with seafood and light pasta.

As I am tasting my way through all the crazy white wines of Italy (there are so many wild varietals) - this wine stands out as being a serious, well-made and versatile white under $20. And while some folks might called it a “quaffer”, I’d rather call it “accessible” -  but it packs on an extra couple of layers of interst that rewards those who look deeper. Somewhere between old-world Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, a solid Cortese like this deserves a place in most geeks’ cellars.

Leitz Riesling Rudesheimer Klosterlay Kabinett, Rheingau, 2007: ~$15US:

My second bottle of this wickedly delicious fruit dart. I can’t imagine a cleaner, fresher expression of tropical fruits (lime, pineapple, mango, guava) in liquid form. I love the lean back, open wide and get-rocked character. The soil seems to be speaking a little more than last time though, which is fine by me - bringing a Pixie-sticks-meet-chalk finish. This just screams value.

Russiz Superior Pinot Bianco, Collio, 2006 ~$US20:

Another big winner here, but it started out a really lean and shy -  too much of a chill on. Once it got closer to room temperature, beautiful, ethereal and sexy aromas just poured out of the glass. Strawberry shortcake, with some fresh peaches in the mix - close my eyes, and this could have been a great Pinot Noir on the nose. Eucalyptus, roses, lemon tart, brambles - I could smell this for hours and got just as much pleasure by putting my nose into the glass as I did actually drinking the stuff…wierd.

Rich in color and on the palate, but not heavy or tiring. A mineral vein and acidic structure really kept this wine tight and focused. Finished long with dried flowers more strawberry patch.  It was great with pasta with a ricotta, pea and jowl bacon sauce - I think this would’ve been even better with buttery fish or crustaceans.

Both, serious wines - the Pinot Bianco more of a sipper and thinker, the Riesling an all out assault.

~$15US, 100% Pinot Grigio, Brda, Slovenia

Vila Mirja is Ales Kristancic’s (of Movia) project to create lighter, easier-drinking wines in his vineyards spanning the Italian-Slovenien border. While less serious than his Movia wines - these are equally distinctive and noteworthy for their organic / biodynamic viticulture - but slightly more modern (stainless steel fermentation).

This is another Pinot Grigio that is far from the norm.  It poured a light amber - almost pale orange. Complex aromas of orange peel, lemon jelly, dried flowers, dried apricots and a slight oxidative - almost fino-sherry nuttiness. Medium bodied on the palate - very fresh - lighter than the Lis Neris, but spicier and lightly oily. Tight acidity. Lots of minerality in the finish, with the spiciness cleanly pushing through.

This is not for everyone (it’s not terribly fruity), but should be tried alongside white meats, fish and pasta to bring out its charm. For the price, an amazing value for truly artisinal, unique, and real wine. For wine geeks and open-minded foodies.

~$14US. 100% Scheurebe, Rhienhessen, Germany

Scheurebe?! (Shoy-raybah) is an early 20th century hybrid grape - the scientific results of crossing Riesling with a wild vine (some speculate Sylvaner) to create a more resliant, robust grape. When grapes are hybridized, a wierd Gestalt thing tends to happen and the results are almost never a simple 1+2=3 equation (think Cabernet Franc + Sauvignon Blanc yielding Cabernet Sauvignon wayyyyy back when). That being said, there are some similarities with Riesling here (high acidity and the vinification within the QmP system - Kabinett ‘rating’) but it clearly has a feel all its own.

This is a highly aromatic wine - with fruit coming into precise focus. Where a Riesling might tend more toward apple, pear and peach - this was so obviously orange Creamsicle and red currant. The profound expression of red currant here is moreso than any red wine I’ve ever had. Some jasmine too. On the palate the wine is a swell ride: it moves from the well-concentrated, ripe fruit through a touch or orange-pip-bitterness and comes to a close with firm acidic lift. It’s definitely on the riper side, but Geil nailed the balance. I could see how an Beerenauslese or TBA Scheurebe could be very seductive.

There are gobs of character and fun here, especially for those who enjoy food pairing. It lit up with citrusy/spicy Chinese cuisine. I would try this with all types of food - both exotic and the ordinary - to see how the sweet/sour/orange/currant components play with others. Tonkatsu? sure. Pork belly? yum. Pancakes with bacon? I’d give it a try…More applause for the impeccable Thiese catalog - This is definitely not a curiousity -This this is real, solid wine that I will certainly revisit and experiment with.

~14US, 100% Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy

Moscato d’Asti gets maligned as a syrupy-sweet bubbly brunch wine. I can’t say that I drink much of it - but this example bucks the trend and reveals a more serious (and seriously delicious) wine.

It poured clear and bubbly - like Crystal Pepsi - but the nose was filled with light floral and peach aromas. A little Mister Bubble soapiness popped up too. Light, sparkling, and effervescent on the palace, with a decent amount of sweetness -  but nothing out of whack in terms of acidic balance.

Short finish but overall a clean, pretty wine that would serve well as an aperitif, or lighter digestif. It may even pair well with some hard cheeses. It’s not going to change the world, but it will change some folks’ impression of Moscato d’Asti.

~$22US, 100% Riesling, Erdener Treppchen Vineyard, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

I don’t know why, but I’ve been a little afraid of the ‘A’ word when it comes to German Rieslings. ‘A’ as in Auslese or Selected Harvest - typically meaning selected ripe berries. The lightbulb went off in my head after the recent fantastic Donnhoff Spatlese, where I realized that these labels (Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, etc) are quality markers, not necessarily universal sweetness indicators. No doubt, Riesling can be high in residual sugars, especially Auslesen, but there is a lot more going on than just ’sweet’.

Riesling’s core minerality and acidity affords it’s flexibility and interpretive diversity. For instance - the longer hang-times of Spatlesen or Auslesen concentrate flavors (including sugars and acidity). Of course the weather, climate, and place affect exactly how and how well this happens, but the results (in the hands of able growers) can be strikingly balanced, proportionate and concentrated wines, from dry to dessert styles. 

The Merkelbach poured a pale hay, almost clear. Honeysuckle and pears on the nose. The palate moved from ripe apples and pears to a powerful mineral-driven midpalate - like a hitting a gravel speedbump while dragging your tongue on a smooth nectary road. The lemon/lime acidity charged back with some nice lift, but lacked a little oomph to really take it all the way home. 

Another very versatile wine, easy to enjoy with aged cheeses, by itself, or with all kinds of food (richer pork and grilled chicken dishes especially). A delicious example, not one to overthink - but I’m not afraid of Auslesen anymore. 

~$11USA, 85% Verdejo, 10% Viura, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda, Spain

I’ve loved Basa since the ‘03 vintage, and believe this to be the best expression yet. Vibrant ruby grapefruit, white peaches with slightly under-ripe cherries, along with a mineral streak that you’d expect from a German Riesling. A shockingly good effort that has the guts to impress wine-geeks, and the accessibility to slug and laugh with friends and summertime food.  No brainer white wine, if you see it, buy it.

~US$20, 100% Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio Valley, Chile

Chile? No doubt this is exciting wine - in theory and practice. Take a white grape indigenous to the Loire valley and Bordeaux, put it in an even more exotic locale than New Zealand…say…mountainous granite slopes in Chile, facing the Pacific, and see what happens.

Pours very pale straw. Big nose hopping out of the glass…almost un-enticing, smokey diesel fumes at first, followed by more appealing broccoli, bell pepper, snap-peas and granny smith apples.

Smooth approach in the mouth, but a big wide spread of high-toned fruit (and vegetables) on the mid-palate. Lots of jalapeno pepper and wet stones. Sharp acidity closes the deal in a clean, mouthwatering finish. Tons of tartness here and quite a bit of funk alongside it - like a  “Garden” flavored Sour-Patch Kid (that probably didn’t do well in the focus groups).

The remarkable acidity and flavor intensity make this an intriguing pairing wine….Toro/Fatty tuna sashimi would be a perfect partner. It would rock with an avocado or simple guacamole. Or with a warm bacon salad.

This is a wine of serious personality and will be polarizing to many folks out there. It’s no tropical patio-pounder sauv-blanc. But I’m not sure if it’s a 95-point, genre-defining, or profound expression of the grape either. It’s just a well-crafted wine demonstrating that the old- and new-worlds can collide in totally unexpected ways and produce wines of character and value.