~$12US ,100% Gamay, Beaujolais, France

Kermit Lynch has deep roots in Beaujolais. His portfolio includes some of the brightest stars and staunchest supporters of the appelation - Chignard, Foillard, Thevenet, etc.  This entry-level offering was priced right and new to me, so I gave it a whirl.

It poured a medium violet, bright and vibrant. The nose was ridiculously candied - like those giant candy gem-rings, fakey-cherry, with Twizzlers and maybe a banana Runt. I  really wanted to pick up any something else, but it was all candy, all the time. The palate was clean and medium-light with healthy acidity and mild edge of tannins - and it finished well…but that candy was just overpowering. I struggled pairing it with food; Gamay tends to play well with others due to its acidity and lighter body, but the almost synthetic fruitiness was tough to tame.

I gave it 24 hours with a cork on the counter, and it improved (less confectionery) but remained simple, fruity and just kinda there. It’s definitely not spoofulatedly over-extracted, oaky, or anything like that - there is certainly purity and freshness of fruit, but the candy deal just isn’t my thing.

Go for it if you like Twizzlers and Runts.

Luc Choblet ‘Clos De La Senaigerie’ Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2004

Surprising golden and mature color. Lime, chalk, and fresh peas. The acidity didn’t bite back as I was expecting - but enough to keep the  overall impression well-balanced.  Salty, subtle and finessed. Try it with roast chicken and peas. Good, but no Clos de Briords…

Domaine Bernard Baudry, “Les Granges,” Chinon 2007

Purple. Just enough funk on the nose to provide intelligent counterpoint to the pure fruit (Bing cherry and currant).  This is Chinon at it’s purest and most honest. Herbal midpalate with a signature snap of peppers and vivid acidity. Just a little tannic grip to keep it real. More integrated and lip-smaking on day 2 and drop-dead fabulous with truffly mac-n-cheese.

Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Rouge 2006, ~$20: I’m not buying any more Burgundy that has the words Pinot Noir on the label.  This was just okay wine; it had acidity, a typically pinot nose of strawberries, a little minerality on the finish, but the mouthfeel was really uninspired and a little thin. There was a roughness to the tannins that made for an awkward finish. I kept it alive for 3 days, and while it didn’t fall apart, it didn’t get much better than the initial pour.  I’ve got a  bunch of Cru Beaujolais that could out-point this effort for 3-5 bucks cheaper.

Terra di Vento Petrale Aglianico 2006 ~$14: This had a little more going on  - but also had simple nose (black cherries and maybe brick dust). Nothing wrong with simplicity - especially under $20, but Aglianico’s greatest characterictic (imho) is its complex and alluring nose.  Medium bodied, and on the fresher side of the spectrum - meant to be enjoyed younger I believe. The finish seemed a bit hotter than I’d expected - but overall an improvement over the ‘burg in terms of the palate quality and drinkability. I’ve got another bottle I’d like to pair with something hearty and beefy, to see where that takes it. Okay+.

Domaine de la Pépière, Clos des Briords, 2007, Muscadet sur Lie: Staggeringly precise and focused, with laser-beam acidity and mouthfulls of schisty good minerals. A ghost-like whiff of citrus and green apple (but the vast majority of the experience is just wet rocks here) on par with an excellent bone-dry Riesling or Chablis for a fraction of the price. On day 2 it traded some in some vigor for a slightly more harmonious midpalate. A new favorite of mine.

Duboeuf Julienas Chateau des Capitans 2005 Cru Beaujolais: I know Duboeuf stands for the Beaujolais ‘Establishment’ but they are partly responsible for bringing the region into the limelight in the 70’s and 80’s – in any case,  this bin-end bargain just surprised the heck out of me. Open for 3 days just with a cork, it evolved slowly and steadily without going over the hill.

Great Gamay tipicity, with ripe red cherries, sour red currant and graphity-pencil-box. The acidity could have used a little boost overall to my taste, but there was enough fruit and some juicy tannins to keep this wine alive for 3+ day. With time, it developed some eastern spice characteristics and relaxed a bit. Accessible and clean.

I have the honor of hosting another FREE wine tasting at Liquor Direct (see liquordirect.net for locations) in Northern Kentucky.

Here are the times:
Friday, May, 15 Covington Store 4-8pm
Saturday May 16, Ft. Thomas Store 2-6pm

Stop by to explore 5 under-the-radar wines from France’s Loire Valley.

Movia Rebula, Brda 2004: Strange. Poured a cloudy golden into the  decanter. Quick taste at first made me realize that it needed some time to wake up. At 30 minutes, it started giving up the strangest ‘French Hooker Perfume‘ (I can only guess here) aromas - cloying herbal, floral (violets) and balsam scents that overpowered my palate with a strange bitterness. Almost undrinkable. Then an hour later, it was just singing, better integrated, no FHP thank goodness. This is wine that makes you feel alive. It was alive. The acidic bite here really worked with foods, and there was a seductive maturity to the finish - long and graceful. Once again, Ales the wizard makes something totally unique and iconoclastic. 

Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Trinch! 2007: Crazy dense magenta in color. Anyone and their mom could pick up on the beautiful bell pepper and wet leaves on the nose here. So much purity and freshness at work here. Totally a pleasure, but not too simple. I love the acidity here - it just explodes - it, and fruit (more like vegetables) are knit together with fine-grained tannins that are just seamless. The next day it mellowed a touch, and showed a little more earth, funk, and zip. I want a case for this spring and summer.

Bell’s HopSlam Ale: Hops are the new black. Or so it would seem in the craft brew aisle. I find a lot to like in the hop monsters from Three Floyds and friends, and was recommended this by a good friend. I can’t say it lived up the the name “HopSlam” in terms of aggressive hopi-ness, but this was a very well-balanced and deft brew.

Rich golden color with a perfect fine head. Obvious tangerine and orange zest on the nose and palate entry, with white flower secondary flavors. It transitions smoothly to a toasted caramel but never syrupy midpalate, through a freshly bitter and resiliant finish, with the hops coming back to close the deal. The overall flow from light and citrusy through a weightier midpalate and finishing light again is a  feat. There is a real elegance to the double-ale, despite it weighing in at 10%ABV. Well done Bell’s.

I couldn’t help myself but get back into another bottle of this fantastic Scheurebe with Chinese food. This wine is flat out delicious, just ripping with tropical fruits, lime, guava, apricot and orange zest. Showing some pine/evergreen in the mix too.  Ripeness right in balance to marry up with spicy foods with a clean acidity to freshen up the palate. This is a confident wine, no apologies and very accessible - just big fruits with enough funkiness  to satisfy the geeks.

If you see this wine for sale ~$15, you’d be a fool not to give it a try where you might typically go for a Riesling, Gewurztraminer, or Viognier.

Scheurebe in the house.

Local wine blogger Michelle Lentz has announced the 2nd Annual Krystal Pepper Memorial Scholarship Fundraising dinner in honor of her late sister, April 18th in Hebron.  For more information, go to http://klpbenefit.ning.com/events/2nd-annual-scholarship-dinner.

Ciavolich Aries Pecorino 2007: White wine masquerading as a red. Red apples, apricots, and honeycomb. Sassy.

Chermette Beaujolais Cuvee Traditionelle VV 2004: Red wine masquerading as a white. Rapier-acidity and fresh cherries.

Millsreef Merlot/Malbec 2004: Red wine. Thinner and oakier than the 2005. Lacking some energy and vigor.

I had a good feeling before opening this small-production single-vineyard Merlot with a cool label (anti 100point scale, etc) - but was ultimately let down by the juice. Bell-pepper, plums and dirty-garage (not earthy in a good way) aromas dominated the nose. Clear oak influence. Disintegrated right now - maybe it needs time - but it wasn’t showing me the hallmarks of a well-structured wine in terms of tannins, acidity and alcoholic balance. Spirity finish. Pass.