~$40US, 100% Chardonnay, Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, California

Extremely pale straw, nearly colorless. White peaches, green apples, mango, and a cold steeliness on the nose. Salty-silica maritime notes in the mix as well. Great aromatics, but the poise and elegance up front portents a very different wine than one might expect from a California chardonnay.

Razor laser focus on the palate. This is a ripping chardonnay with full-throttle acidity, serious vitality and vigor. No ‘oakiness’ evident, other than whatever it took to add some weight to the midpalate. So fresh, clean, and precise - This is extreme chardonnay. I’ve been drinking lots of Riesling and Chenin Blanc lately, and what struck me was the fruit ripeness is totally complete, but it’s so dry and acidic. No make-up, no stylization. I wouldn’t call it classically balanced, but it does have a great place at the table with firmer/fattier fish, Japanese cuisine, or cheeses.

Personally, I am a sucker for acidity, and really enjoyed the nearly palate-stripping power here. It’s fresh, true, and extreme - so you have to know what you are getting into. But if you get into the high-toned acidity of Chablis, bone-dry Rieslings and Loire whites, you’ll be surprised at what this new world Chardonnay can offer. I’d be curious to see what a few years of cellar-time would do - but unfortunately, my only bottle is gone. The price and rarity prohibit this from being a great value, but it is a unique wine and one to try at least once. Kudos Wes!

We enjoyed a good sampling of American wines with dinner and dessert - with the  Meredith Lagier coming out on top.
A premier-cru burgundy the next day disappointed in it’s simplicity.

Ridge, Santa Cruz Chardonnay 2004: Phenolic, fresh, restrained oak, green apples. Unremarkable.

Lagier Meredith, Mt. Veeder Syrah 2003: Perfumed, violets, and lavender, elegant medium-bodied, refined acidity and tannins. Lovely.

Rosenblum, Rhodes Vineyard Petit Sirah 2005: Rich and viscous. Maple syrup on ripe berry waffles, with black pepper and cinnamon. Decadent - almost dessert style.

Bouchard, Beaune du Chateau 2002: Red cherry, black olives. Strange raw “fowlish” aromas. Brisk acidity. Young and simple at this point.

Calera Mt. Harlan Chardonnay 2004, Napa ~$24US

nose: Caramel apples, alcohol
palate: round but fresh, white peach, green apple.
finish: soft, buttered popcorn, glycerine

A solid California Chardonnay - Oaked, but not over-the-top. Well made, but not outstanding. There are similar wines cheaper, and better wines at this price.

Siete 7, Vinos de Terrunos 2005, Navarra Spain ~$8US - 80% Grenache, 20% Tempranillo

nose: Red cherries, petrol, blacktop, some dirty, wet leaves
palate: Serious. Cherries; appealing acidity, juiciness and smooth tannins. Some balsamic notes = brett maybe?
finish: Spree, long.

Similar to the ‘Les Ruffes”, except this one is from Spain and has Tempranillo. Also a great value, probably more interesting in its earthiness. And sweet label.

~$25-30US 100% Chardonnay, Sonoma
I want to start by saying this was an enormous surprise, and one of the best chardonnays I’ve had in awhile. Very pale straw color in the glass. Aromatically auspicious, with green apples, pears, lime, and watermelon Jolly Ranchers up front. On the palate this wine shows it stuff as a stunningly-well crafted chardonnay. Full-flavored, but medium in body. Just the right amount of oak to bring in some cinnamon and a tiny bit of vanilla and toast, but these notes support and add complexity to the fruits. The dance of sweetness and acidity make this very exciting on the tongue. Becomes more tropical and complex in the midpalate with some more coconut, peach, lime and even a little strawberry, beyond the apple and pear. A curious mushroom flavor shook things up into the otherwise clean finish, for a final twist. Not only great with food, but simply appetizing. A stunner.

An awesome expression of American chardonnay. This wine rocks the fresh fruit, liveliness, and complexity with style.