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2 singular wines produced by 2 singular producers on different sides of the world. They actually had quite a bit in common - especially from a structural point-of-view (aside from their winemaker’s dedication to quality and uncommon passion_

Chateau Musar Blanc 1998, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon: Deep gold color. Fascinating nose of marzipan, honey and hazelnuts. Sherry-like. Dried strawberries, dates and figs with slight citrus and floral notes. Very round and mouth-coating entry - the nose really lets on that this will be sweet - but NO! It’s dry. It has a generous body, but the mouthwatering tart acidity that gives the wine focus. Lemon cake. It opened up beautifully after 6-10 hours, and showed very little disintegration after 24(!). Thought-provoking and totally versatile: from mac-n-cheese to mixed mezze to fish to pastilla to baklava. This wine transcends preconceptions like color/varietal/blend/terroir and just exists. It’s polarizing, but not to be missed.

Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir 2005, Sta. Rita Hills, California: Beautiful purple-tinged ruby; translucent, but rich. The nose is perfumed with ripe strawberries, red raspberries, and some muted but alluring star anise, sandalwood, and cinnamon. There is an unusual perception of big volume and perfect fruit ripeness immediately on the entry (almost sweet?!) - which transitions towards a very elegant and finessed midpalate and finish. Medium body with great acidity to pair with anything from a burger to simply prepared salmon. Very fine tannins. The tiny touch of minerality and discrete bitterness on the finish is characterful. A superb example of using the right wood. Attractive but not sexy, charismatic but still humble, and bright but not pedantic. The bottle was gone way before we were ready to say goodbye.

~$16 US, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California

“Value” Pinots are rare these days (especially from California) due to the finicky nature of actually growing the grapes, vinifying them honestly, the Sideways effect, etc. There seems to be a big price-rift with scads of mass-market efforts floating in the sub$15 range, then a big jump to the $35-50+ range for the serious single-vineyard designates / artisan producers. But every once in awhile a compelling wine lands in the $15-25 range - I tend to seek those out…

I was in the mood for something American for a change, and popped and poured. Saturated but medium-transparent ruby color. Strawberries and cinnamon on the nose, with ripe red-raspberry patch and some smoky undertones. Round and juicy palate - big, but showing balance with firm acidic lift. Integrated tannins = drinking great right now. The initial sweetness and body of the fruit transition towards a lighter, fresher midpalate, where the wine loses a little steam and gets a little spike of alcohol. It come back together for the long finish, where red rooibos tea components mix with mineral flavors.

The Bearboat shows very well for a $15 Pinot (be it RRV, Central Coast, Village Burgundy, NZ, or elsewhere) with its clean fruit-driven approach and how it maneuvers around problem areas like over-oaking, alcoholic bitterness, over-ripeness or an awkward finish. It’s a fuller-bodied Pinot that could pair easily with burgers of any sort, grilled chicken, pork bbq, or the traditional salmon. It may have a year or 2 of upside, but probably wont gain additional complexity, so why wait? A yummy weeknight red.

~$40US, 100% Pinot Noir, Fiddlestix vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, California

Medium transparent ruby. Big boisterous brambly nose with cherry pie filling. Soft and viscous in the front of the palate, moving towards a taught acidity and some serious spice. Not alcoholic spice - more like a black-pepper spice. Fabulous balance and length. Fruit-driven, and not terribly complex, but totally intriguing as it progressed in the palate from bold to hot. With food? = absolutely - but I wouldn’t try to pair it with anything too spicy, as it could fight.

It showed better and more integrated with softened spices on day 3. Sta. Rita Hills Pinots have really gotten me back into this grape, despite all my efforts to avoid the hype. To my mind, they show the importance of proportionality when creating wines with more forward fruit characteristics than the benchmark Burgundies.

~$18US, 100% Pinot Noir, Central Coast California

A good contrast to the Brewer-Clifton tasted the night prior. Similarly light in color - definitely not one of those opaque and dense Pinot. This young wine was accessible on opening, but developed quite a bit over time . It began showing primary fruit notes of black cherry - then went through a “strange phase” @ 2-3 hours where it got funky and sweaty-socky (but not bad) - finally balancing out with strawberries and just perfect splash of acidity. The mouthfeel was satiny-smooth, with good length. Totally food friendly. I haven’t tasted a better Pinot Noir under $20. And at roughly 1/3 the price of the Brewer-Clifton, it delivered 2/3 of the quality.

Ghisolfi Langhe Pinay 2005

~$15US, 100% Pinot Noir, Langhe, Italy
Medium-transparent ruby. Very intriguing old-skool nose: chamomile, barnyard, wet leather, violets, strawberries burried in the dirt. Tight mouthfeel, strong acidity and medium-to-firm tannins. Became more simple with air time -the initial impression was the most profound for me. The fruit was definitely secondary. Good with my pasta, but not great. Maybe better with something like a mushroom risotto or braised pork shoulder. I had high hopes from the fascinating initial nose - but it fell a little short overall. Not bad, but not outstanding. I would suspect more bottle time would  help it flesh out.

Barrel 27 Central Coast Syrah 2005

~$15US, 100% Syrah, Central Coast California
Black-Magenta. Perfumed. This transformed in the decanter - initially blueberries, cloves, and tobacco on the nose - over time developing into the most profound expression of green olives I’ve ever come across in a wine - nearly usurping the fruit. I mean close your eyes and you’d think you were hovering over the olive bar. Very rich, round and mouth-coating. Softer tannins, and medium acidity. Initially overpowering for food( didn’t even try to pair it before an hour in the decanter)- as the fruit character receded, it became increasingly food friendly and added dimensions to the simple pasta dish. A big surprise.

Le Ragose Valpolicella Classico Superiore Le Sassine 2003: Leather, garlic greens, sour cherry, black pepper, dried apricots, brown sugar. Utterly delicious in an old-world way. Very complex and surprising. Classically proportioned and well-structured. Fabulous accompaniment to fresh pasta w/ vegetables.

Jean Milan Champagne Blanc de Blancs Spécial NV:Doughy nose, with seashells. A little nutty, with a bright and fresh mouthfeel.  Elegant. Fleeting finish holding this back from really rocking.

Alban Central Coast Viognier 2006: Ridiculous nose of flowers, Ivory soap, Big-League Chew, Skittles, pineapples. Brings a serious rainbow of tropical flavors. A little hot (~16% ABV) and syrupy. Coconuts, peaches, and fruit cocktail. Probably the most hedonistic white wine I’ve ever had - I loved it, other tasters were not so hot on it’s over-the top fruit ripeness.

Amisfield Central Otago Pinot Noir 2003: The 04 was excellent, and this 03 probably even better. Fragrant as all hell. More wood and tobacco notes to support the Cherry Cola / Dr. Pepper - truly one foot in the old (leafy tobacco, black olives) and one foot in the new world (big cherries). Silky in the mouth - medium-to-full bodied, but not heavy. Another stunner of a Pinot.

We enjoyed a good sampling of American wines with dinner and dessert - with the  Meredith Lagier coming out on top.
A premier-cru burgundy the next day disappointed in it’s simplicity.

Ridge, Santa Cruz Chardonnay 2004: Phenolic, fresh, restrained oak, green apples. Unremarkable.

Lagier Meredith, Mt. Veeder Syrah 2003: Perfumed, violets, and lavender, elegant medium-bodied, refined acidity and tannins. Lovely.

Rosenblum, Rhodes Vineyard Petit Sirah 2005: Rich and viscous. Maple syrup on ripe berry waffles, with black pepper and cinnamon. Decadent - almost dessert style.

Bouchard, Beaune du Chateau 2002: Red cherry, black olives. Strange raw “fowlish” aromas. Brisk acidity. Young and simple at this point.

Meadowlark Cabernet-Syrah 2005 - Napa Valley: Black currant, green peppers, wet sticks and tree bark. Some petrol notes after some air-time. Juicy and fruit forward, full-bodied and well built. This is good wine - no doubt, but this point in my wine-journey, I’m realizing that I’m just not down with green-pepper in my Cabernet…I know it shows up often, but I can’t do it. Just a personal thing (being allergic to them). Probably wont rebuy.

Baumard Clos de Ste. Catherine 2002 - Loire - Coteaux du Layon (Chenin Blanc): Complex noise of marzipan, peach nectar, baking spices, honey. SWEET! Dessert style. Biting acidity to keep things in balance - but the tongue-coating sweetness won. Viscous. Some unpleasant bitterness right before the finished tainted the overall experience for me. I would rebuy another vintage only if I had some more friends interested in trying it too.

Amisfield Pinot Noir 2004 - New Zealand - Central Otago: Wow. Dr. Pepper, ripe and black cherries, strawberry jam, wild mushrooms, and plush velvet. Expansive and deep, but not over-the-top. Silky. Simply wonderful - a serious effort from NZ showing that they have something unique to say about Pinot. Love it. Rebuy.

~$35US 100% Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Purchased this on Steve-O’s (of 3wineguys.com) recommendation a few months ago. Decanted and tasted over the course of 3+ hours. Medium-transparent ruby color. A very tight and mysterious nose at first, but one that opened up generously after 1-2 hours. Floral and fresh - spring wildflowers, lavender and violets, backed by a stony-minerality. As it bloomed, more red fruits appeared and took center-stage. Silky and balanced on the palate - oak, acidity, tannins, and fruit all showed discipline and harmony. Red-delicious apple-peel, some black cherry and some tarry notes added complexity. A long, round finish with a hint of licorice closes the deal. Versatile and very food-friendly.

An Oregon Pinot of serious character, concentration, and structure. Enjoyable now, and with a little decanting it will hold it’s own amongst it’s Californian and Burgundian brethren.