~$16US 60% Grenache /24% Syrah /12% Mourvèdre /4% Counoise, Paso Robles, CA

This is my first Tablas Creek wine - A joint venture between the Perrin Family of the Rhone, (Chat. Beaucastel) and their longtime importer, Robert Haas. This, their entry-level offering, was a medium transparent ruby. The nose was shy at first but opened with time to reveal syrupy cherry, raspberry, and saline. The palate was medium-to-full-bodied and hot (15.2% ABV difficult to integrate here), but very juicy and lush. A nice surprising minerality and unique maritime character supported the upfront fruitinesss, with some great dried herb notes - oregano and anise. The herbal notes continued to the finish, but the alcoholic bite bittered the final impression.

This is an exciting wine. There are more complex wines in this price point, but there is nothing wrong with a linear, fruit-forward wine when it delivers the goods without going to Candyland. Most importantly, it achieves real character and a sense of place, which is (arguably) the most profound expression a wine can make. It might have been a tad more alcoholic than it’s framework could support, but the overall feeling was a fine counterpoint and challenge to the typical Cotes-du-Rhone.

~ $20US 80% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, Southern Rhone, France

Deep crimson color. Giving on the nose with peppery aromas rising from the glass, with dark maduro-tobacco, allspice, cedar, and a little meatiness (bacon?). Reserved on the palate (still young), but very promising with some air - showing a good balance between the brooding animal that is grenache, and a clean acidity. Some fascinating bing cherries pop into the mid-palate, from out of nowhere. Round, but not heavy. If there is oak here, it is subtle and finessed. Tannins very much in play, but not in a detracting way - they just keep the fruit in line. The cherries continue into the finish, in a harmonious tapering ending.

I really like this - well-structured, but still juicy and round in the mouth. Some weird, wild flavors and aromas from the grenache, but quite elegant and restrained. The cherry surprise and it’s persistence through the end of the wine really make this unique. This is another wine begging to be enjoyed with food - I think smoked salmon, braised pork and herb-roasted chicken would really work out well here. One strong Cotes-du-Rhone that equals the lesser Chateauneufs.

~18US Northern Rhone Crozes-Hermitage - 100% Syrah

I found this Crozes-Hermitage on the bottom shelf at a nice wine shop while visiting my parents. Deep, opaque red, with a bricky fringe. The nose evolved over 3+ hours - through spicy, raspberry, and gamey (smoked wild boar?) aromas. On the palate - a warm-hearted and sturdy wine, well-built with firm tannins and soft acidity. Definitely a Syrah. The earthy- meaty flavors hit the palate before the fruit, with an old-world balance. Fairly interesting after opening up, and a fair match for grilled meats, but just not terribly exciting.

A solid, full-bodied Syrah with gamey notes; a great foil to try against the big Barossa and McLaren beasts from Oz.