Clos Pepe Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, 2006

jseeds | March 16, 2008

~$40US, 100% Chardonnay, Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, California

Extremely pale straw, nearly colorless. White peaches, green apples, mango, and a cold steeliness on the nose. Salty-silica maritime notes in the mix as well. Great aromatics, but the poise and elegance up front portents a very different wine than one might expect from a California chardonnay.

Razor laser focus on the palate. This is a ripping chardonnay with full-throttle acidity, serious vitality and vigor. No ‘oakiness’ evident, other than whatever it took to add some weight to the midpalate. So fresh, clean, and precise - This is extreme chardonnay. I’ve been drinking lots of Riesling and Chenin Blanc lately, and what struck me was the fruit ripeness is totally complete, but it’s so dry and acidic. No make-up, no stylization. I wouldn’t call it classically balanced, but it does have a great place at the table with firmer/fattier fish, Japanese cuisine, or cheeses.

Personally, I am a sucker for acidity, and really enjoyed the nearly palate-stripping power here. It’s fresh, true, and extreme - so you have to know what you are getting into. But if you get into the high-toned acidity of Chablis, bone-dry Rieslings and Loire whites, you’ll be surprised at what this new world Chardonnay can offer. I’d be curious to see what a few years of cellar-time would do - but unfortunately, my only bottle is gone. The price and rarity prohibit this from being a great value, but it is a unique wine and one to try at least once. Kudos Wes!


Fiddlehead Cellars Fiddlestix 728, 2004

jseeds | January 21, 2008

~$40US, 100% Pinot Noir, Fiddlestix vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, California

Medium transparent ruby. Big boisterous brambly nose with cherry pie filling. Soft and viscous in the front of the palate, moving towards a taught acidity and some serious spice. Not alcoholic spice - more like a black-pepper spice. Fabulous balance and length. Fruit-driven, and not terribly complex, but totally intriguing as it progressed in the palate from bold to hot. With food? = absolutely - but I wouldn’t try to pair it with anything too spicy, as it could fight.

It showed better and more integrated with softened spices on day 3. Sta. Rita Hills Pinots have really gotten me back into this grape, despite all my efforts to avoid the hype. To my mind, they show the importance of proportionality when creating wines with more forward fruit characteristics than the benchmark Burgundies.


Brewer-Clifton Rio Vista 2005 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills

jseeds | January 14, 2008

1525.jpg  ~$50US, 100% Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California.

Very clean brilliant ruby color - quite light. Wild perfumed nose, with strawberries for days…Very round and big in volume on the palate, with deep spice notes, cloves and cinnamon. Excellent purity of fruit, and over time more of the 2nd and 3rd tier aromatics came through. A bit of tomato - not a green/herbal flavor but a sweeter grape/cherry tomato along with some rosemary aromatics. I could only argue for a hint more acidity and length. Food friendly - I could imagine this working well with hard-to-pair things like pork and richer fish dishes with bigger sauces. A delicious and character-full wine which shows-off the strengths of the AVA/region well.

Anyone curious as to why people get really passionate California Pinot should try this.


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