Chateau Tour Grise ‘253′ Saumur, 2004

jseeds | July 8, 2008

~$13US, 100% Cabernet Franc, Saumur, Loire Valley, France

Wine Blogging Wednesday 47 is upon us, and this month the theme is simply the letter ‘S’. Slim pickins in the Bestdrinkever HQ cellar - It was either this Saumur, a Spatburgunder (which just felt wrong), or a choice of Syrahs (too ordinary).  My daughter thought this one looked cool, especially the kitschy alligator-skin capsule that just screamed ‘drink me’.

The Saumur Rouge (Saumur also produces Blancs with Chenin Blanc) poured a deep magenta purple, and had an unmistakable pickled jalepeno pepper spice on the nose. There was something ‘twiggy’ or ‘leafy’ about this wine on the nose and palate - a crispy vegetal/earthiness that overwhelmed any fruit character. A big bolt of acidity and astringent tannins on the backend gave the wine an overall inaccessibility. Food pairing is a must - Just not sure what exactly…maybe rabbit or game with a mushroom ragout? Cheeses? Twigs?

While I routinely enjoy old-world old-school wines, and I prize acidity and earthiness quite a bit - this  didn’t really tickle me as much as I’d expected. Maybe more time in the bottle would help the mid-palate fatten up - but more time in the glass just made it skew more tart and thin. I respect the Chateau’s natural winemaking techniques, non-filtration, and low yields, but I’m just not feeling this particular bottle.


Chateau Tour Grise Saumur Blanc - Les Fontanelles 2002

jseeds | November 2, 2007

30286.jpg~$12US %100 Chenin Blanc, Saumur, Loire Valley, France

Color: Medium Gold
Nose: Bracing and complex - green apple, lime zest, pineapple, under-ripe strawberries, honey
Palate: Medium-bodied, citrus freshness, river-rocks, piercing acidity in the midpalate
Finish: Fairly lengthy - tart, appetizing grapefruit and mineral water

A complex wine, not easy (for me) to like at first - but definitely finely crafted. A ‘grower’. While I appreciate fresh acidity, this was straight-up sour right after I popped the bottle. But, even at 5 years old, the wine really rounded out over the course of a few hours, making me think it could use another 2-3 years to continue improving. With some air-time, it became more integrated and nuanced - especially on the nose. Stylistically, this wine must be paired with food you’d squeeze a lemon on - I could imagine it being magic with with fresh oysters and shellfish. A specialized wine, well done.


Filliatreau Saumur Champigny Grand Vignolle 2005

jseeds | October 17, 2007

Filliatreau Saumur Champigny Grand Vignolle 2005 from Labels at Wine Library~$14US 100% Cabernet Franc, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France

Nose: Red cherries, Autumn leaves, damp soil
Palate: Rollercoaster; Begins very broad and round, giving the illusion of big red fruits (like a big California Pinot), but transitions through the palate towards a leaner, almost bright finish. It never feels sweet, although as the tannins kick in later on the palate, the sweetness resides and the acidity plays the balancing role. Nice earth and fruit interplay.
Finish: Tobacco, very firm and vigorous.

Fresh and stimulating - but easy to drink. This Cab Franc displayed more earth and fruit than vegetables, and a mercurial palate. A great “gateway”wine to the Loire region. I would bet this will improve over the next 3-5 years in bottle as well. A perfect autumn lunch wine.


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